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Alsace 2020s and 2021s: Just like Janus (Apr 2023)

The golden color of the 2021 Pinot Gris Rangen de Thann Clos Saint Urbain Grand Cru signals richness. However, the wine is subtle on the nose and still clouded by promising reduction. The palate presents juicy pear, lemon-edged, with a lovely licorice bitterness. The acidity is smooth and balanced, but licorice keeps flashing up darkly,…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a slightly disjointed bouquet, not as well knit as its peers, with touches of beeswax, lavender oil and rosemary. The palate is well-balanced. It’s a “nimble” Grand Cru, thanks to the silver bead of acidity. There’s more tension here due to what feels like a lower pH, lemon curd…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru has a slightly earthier bouquet than its siblings this year, a litle more introspective. The palate is more expressive with red berry fruit, allspice and a touch of dried orange rind. There is ample energy and plenty of structure on this Mitans with a tingle on the tongue…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Beaune Clos des Aigrots 1er Cru Blanc, which has been pressed using a vertical pressoir since 2017, has a lively bouquet with citrus peel, dried honey and light spicy aromas. The palate is very taut on the entry, good extract here with yellow fruit, dessicated orange peel and a touch of salinity towards…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 1er Cru has a very well defined nose with vivid dark cherry and raspberry fruit, touches of crushed stone and rose petals. Wonderful focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a bit of oak to be subsumed on the entry. Good fruit concentration considering the growing season, quite savoury towards the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 La Grande Rue Grand Cru is aromatically tailored in a similar vein to the domaine’s other Grand Crus: ethereal and floral in style with rose-petal-infused red fruit, the quintessential Pinoté, and hints of crushed rock developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, cohesive and poised, gaining weight with aeration toward…