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2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Pavie is silky, powerful and intense, with all of its elements in the right place. In 2014, Pavie is exceptionally polished, with plenty of richness but less of the bombastic style of some years past. Part of that is, of course, the personality of the vintage, but at the same time, there has…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Pavie is one of my preferred vintages of the decade, perhaps because the growing season put a leash on its power. It has a forward and generous nose, but there is clearly as much complexity as the Figeac that precedes it: dark berry fruit, iron filings, cedar and just a hint of tobacco….

Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk (Aug 2024)

This 2021 St Henri blend of Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale Shiraz is a charmer but understated. A fresh and bright expression of dark cherry and roasted spice flavors, which are seamless and moreish. A little more reserved than usual, with solid, measured and well integrated tannins before opening out to a savory finish. An…

Ridge Monte Bello Revisited: 1968 – 2012 (Jul 2016)

A dark, brooding beauty, the 2006 Monte Bello is still very, very young. The aromatics alone are enticing, but the tannins still need time to soften. The 2006 is a masculine, vertical Monte Bello that demands cellaring. Even so, it is pretty impressive today. Scents of lavender, sage, mint and savory herbs add closing flourishes….

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Petrus is delicate, pretty and understated, just as it was en primeur. Crushed red berry fruit, mint, lavender and rose petal are all finely knit in a Petrus that is built more on delicacy than power. Silky tannins and mid-weight structure add to an impression of understated finesse. The 2021 is a beautifully…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Pétrus, which was bottled last June, as usual takes a few swirls of the glass to really settle into its groove. Olivier Berrouet said that he did not try to push this wine, decreasing the percentage of new oak and shortening the time in barrel by a couple of months. It eventually offers…