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Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Classic citrus scents of lemon and grapefruit. At once sweeter, deeper and more energetic than the Petit Chablis, conveying an almost plush texture to its citrus fruit flavors. After the creamy middle, the finish is firm, taut and incisive. With its moderate acidity, this wine will drink well young but it will…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Deep, shimmering violet. Expansive, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of cherry liqueur, cassis, coconut and pungent flowers show excellent clarity. Stains the palate with concentrated dark fruit and violet pastille flavors that are complemented by suggestions of mocha, smoked meat and exotic spices. Distinctly generous in character, but there”s also superb energy thanks to a core…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Pale, bright yellow. Subtle floral lift to the aromas of lemon, lime, menthol and chalky minerality. Dense, tactile, dry and deep, conveying a solid impression without any heaviness. Citrus peel, lavender and subtle nutmeg flavors show lovely mineral firmness and grip for the year. There’s a soil-driven chewiness here that’s as much Corton-Charlemagne as the…

1996 Piedmont: The Proof is in the Pudding (Oct 2017)

The 1996 Sperss is arguably the most backward of these 1996s from Gaja. Still very young and tightly wound, the 1996 is going to need at least a few years to truly blossom. Even so, it is likely to remain somewhat compact and classically austere in build. The flavors are dark, with plenty of melted…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2000)

Full saturated ruby. Brooding, profound aromas of black cherry, black raspberry and smoked meat. Boasts remarkably intense and penetrating flavors, and has the superb density of material to buffer its powerful acids and tannins. This very backward wine already shows a harmony of components and grip of steel. The finish features palate-drenching tannins and great…

A Look Back at the 2004 & 2005 Barbarescos (Jun 2016)

The 2004 Barbaresco is at the beginning of what promises to be a long drinking window. Hints of cedar, cinnamon, earthiness and wild flowers open up in the glass with a sense of effortless grace. Brambly notes add a dimension of earthiness. There is so much to like here, first and foremost the wine’s exceptional…