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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru sees 20% new oak. It has a very harmonious bouquet with pure cranberry and raspberry fruit, though maybe not the most complex example that I encountered from this vineyard. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip, quite structured, a hint of spice and balsamic behind the raspberry and…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 1er Cru has the most exotic nose in the flight, touches of prune tincturing the dark cherries, more opulence and cassis scents emerging with aeration. The palate is luscious from the start, with layers of ripe black cherries, cassis, blood orange and hints of curry powder. Powerful and attention-seeking, hedonistic…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a slightly tertiary nose. Dark berry fruit with touches of peat and loam open nicely in the glass. Maybe it just misses a little pedigree. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty tannins. Fresh acidity, almost citric, with a little brittleness towards the finish. It doesn’t quite “flow” like the…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet of mixed red and black fruit and a faint touch of tomato vine. It becomes more floral with aeration. The palate has fine structure, and there’s some clever stem addition apparent here, lending this Clos Saint-Jacques a subtle leafy character. Focused with…

Napa Valley’s Thrilling 2018s & 2019s, Part 1 (Jan 2021)

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Gravelly Meadow is ample and full in feel. Dark fruit, scorched earth, licorice, chocolate, spice, leather and menthol fill out the layers effortlessly. Somber and brooding, the Gravelly Meadow has a lot going on. It clearly needs time to be at its best. Firm hillside tannins add to a feeling of…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Volnay Les Frémiets 1er Cru is more earthier on the nose than the Village Cru and demonstrates more red fruit, touches of tobacco and Early Grey emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent red berry fruit, quite saline with a dash of white pepper towards the finish. If you don’t manage…