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Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has a well-defined bouquet of white peach, apricot and light candle wax aromas and nicely integrated oak. The well-balanced palate leads with quince and orange peel on the entry, revealing a pleasant bitter undertow and fanning out with confidence toward the saline finish. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc offers quite a bit of upfront intensity and attack, but then loses persistence through the mid-palate and finish, which makes it come across as rather monolithic. I don’t see the focus, tension or energy that are such signatures of the Blanc. Perhaps time in bottle will help to some…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is showing quite a bit of oak on the nose, although this should be subsumed with bottle age. The palate is rounded and rather oaky on the entry and the finish is dominated by the wood. This has shown supremely well in the past and I think it’s…

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

Bright, pale yellow. Very ripe yet classic Clos aromas of menthol, iodine, silex and wild herbs, with a touch of oyster-shell reduction. Densely packed and fine-grained, with lovely lemony acidity nicely balancing the wine’s sweetness. The whiplash of a finish features citrus and herb notes and a positive tartness that calls for some cellaring. Droin…

2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

Bright, pale yellow. Reserved aromas of yellow peach and rocks. Less supple but more complex than the Vireuils, with a firm spine of acidity giving thrust to the lemony flavor. Still youthfully angular (always the highest in acidity among my wines, says Roulot) but finishes with excellent cut and length. Give this one four or…

Hungary’s 21st-Century Tokajis (Jun 2014)

(174 g.l. r.s): Bright orange-gold. Smells lighter and livelier than the Betsek, offering fruitier aromas of peach and apricot. Then fresh, high-pitched and tight on the palate, with lively acidity framing and lifting the flavors of orange zest, apricot and spices. Finishes youthful, silky and long. Like the Betsek, this is a blend of furmint,…