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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Les Ormes de Pez was a perplexing wine from barrel, when I felt it was unnaturally hedonistic. Now in bottle, it does not dispense with what is still a comparatively exotic bouquet for a Saint-Estèphe in this vintage: brash red fruit, kirsch and cassis aromas. This is quite seductive but it just misses…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Cantemerle has strong peppermint/menthol scents on the nose that obscure the terroir and typicity. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet, ripe red fruit. It’s pretty exotic for the vintage, but it feels as if it is trying too hard to impress and lacks finesse and complexity on the finish. Tasted blind at the…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

A wine of notable precision, persistence and class, the 2014 Cantemerle is outstanding. Sweet tobacco, licorice, red cherry and dried savory herbs are some of the signatures. Medium in body and lively, the 2014 captures the best attributes of the year. This is a positively stellar showing.

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cantemerle has an initially perplexing nose, very outgoing with predominantly red berry fruit that feels too oaky. Then it coalesces with aeration, though there is quite a lot of reduction in evidence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and, again, mainly red fruit plus a touch of sea salt. Yet it lacks…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cantemerle is going through a challenging time. Mid-weight structure and harsh, angular tannins are penalizing. Dark cherry, graphite, dried herb and coffee struggle to emerge, but the 2018 never really fills out.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Bring It On (Jun 2024)

The vibrant 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape bursts with pronounced spice box, menthol, tobacco, black plum, iodine, licorice, leather and crushed violets. Offering a vertical sensation on the full-bodied palate, the 2007 captures the ripeness and concentration of the vintage without veering into jamminess. The savory finish is energetic and long-lasting. This is a stunning Clos des Papes…