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The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Bourgogne Aligoté was bottled in April. It has a clean and sharp bouquet—a little more malic, perhaps from the fruit located up in the Hautes-Côtes. The palate is well balanced, a little oily in texture, with fine acidity and a lighter, sour lemon- and ginger-tinged finish. Enjoy this over the next four or…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Charmes 1er Cru has an earthy, autumnal bouquet with brown leaves filtering through the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, quite compact yet with decent focus on the finish. All that is missing is just a bit of flair.

Napa Valley’s 2022 & 2023 Cabernet Sauvignons (Dec 2024)

The 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon M. Étain is gorgeous. Plump, juicy and inviting, the 2022 is an absolute joy. It might not quite have the depth or intensity of the very best years, but it comes very, very close. More than anything else, the wine’s balance is impressive. A burst of dark red cherry, pomegranate, spice,…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

(this is just under 14% alcohol with about 130 grams per liter of residual sugar) Orange-gold color, with a reddish tinge. High-toned, carnal aromas of quince jam, orange peel, toffee and raisiny dried fruits; shows a strong Tokaji-like aspect. Superconcentrated and sweet but not particularly glyceral, with firm acids giving the wine an uncanny lightness….

Marking Milestones with Moulin Touchais (Apr 2021)

Nineteen nighty six wasn’t a legendary vintage unlike the season that would follow. The 1996 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon, a product of a fairly warm season, it is not overtly warm in its fruit profile with some lightly botrytised spice character, plus a rose-like scent, apricots and almonds. With just 76g/L of residual sugar…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

(vinified with 60% whole clusters): Good deep red. Complex aromas of brambly raspberry, dark cherry, menthol, licorice, leather and brown spices, plus an element of chocolatey torrefaction. Juicy and tightly wound, with a tight core of spice and good rocky tension. Saline and savory in a positive way. Nicely balanced and not at all hard,…