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A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has a very sensual, perfumed, floral bouquet with crushed violets and licorice infusing the black fruit. It needs time to really open in the glass, manifesting more underlying graphite scents with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins and quicksilver thread of acidity. It offers the sensuality of…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a wine of somber intensity, one that will require years to be at its best. Dark fruit, leather, incense, licorice, plum and mocha slowly open in the glass. Pichon Comtesse is often more demonstrative at this stage, but the 2022 is decidedly reticent. I expect it will be…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Lafite-Rothschild is a magnificent, thrilling wine. A Lafite for the ages, the 2022 possesses off-the-charts richness and yet never loses its unique Lafiteness. It's as if all the elements are dialed up to the maximum, but without sacrificing clarity. That's quite an achievement in my book. Inky red fruit, blood orange, spice and…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Lafite-Rothschild bides its time in the glass. Head winemaker Eric Kohler told me that this contains the highest proportion of vin de presse ever at 17%, and the alcohol is 13.6%. The 2022 is initially quite reticent, but after four or five minutes, it unfolds with scents of blackberry, cedar, graphite and a…

Drouhin’s Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc: 1979-2016 (Feb 2019)

Pale yellow with a green tinge. More minerally and complex on the nose than the ’16, offering hints of iodine and wild herbs, along with a toasty nuance; a bit reduced, reticent and deep. Fat and ripe on the palate but surprisingly dry owing to lovely mineral-driven vinosity. The wine’s stone fruit flavors are in…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc 1er Cru has an upfront, quite oaky bouquet, although there seems to be plenty of fruit packed in behind it. That should be absorbed over the next two or three years. The well-balanced palate features tropical tones of passion fruit, peach skin and a touch of nectarine. I…