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2009 Barolo: Highs and Lows (May 2013)

Smoke, incense and tobacco are some of the many nuances that emerge from the 2009 Barolo Vigneto Cannubi. One of the very best 2009s from this historic site, Burlotto’s Cannubi impresses for its depth, richness and sheer power. The sensuality typical of Cannubi is given extra dimensions of pure volume that are unusual yet hugely…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Suduiraut presents a bewitching bouquet of dried honey, lanolin, saffron and light orange pith scents, all harmonious and well delineated. This might be better than I estimated from barrel. The palate is balanced with great density and weight, a viscous texture, a fine bead of acidity and a hint of passion fruit toward…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Suduiraut is elegant, gracious and lifted, as the wines here typically are these days. Apricot, cinnamon, dried flowers, mint and orange peel all grace this wonderfully airy, understated Sauternes. Most importantly, the 2022 is a wine of exquisite balance. The 190 grams of residual sugar is quite a bit higher than the norm…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Deep violet. Smoke- and spice-accented dark berries and cherry on the highly perfumed nose. Lively bitter cherry, blueberry and violet pastille flavors stain the palate, showing fine definition and a supporting spine of tangy acidity. Opens up and deepens on the strikingly long, incisive finish, which features gently chewy tannins and lingering florality.

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Opaque ruby. Smoky raspberry, cherry and violet aromas are lifted and sharpened by a suave Indian spice note. Sappy and broad in the mouth, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors and a touch of fruitcake. Warm yet lively, finishing with excellent thrust, supple tannins and persistent spiciness. Philippe Guigal noted that he won’t be…

Cellar Favorite: 1988 Ausone (Apr 2019)

The 1988 Ausone shows extremely well after 31 years. It remains lucid in colour with little ageing on the rim. The bouquet is clean, with so much fruit that it comes across more like a 1989 than a 1988. It sports none of the leanness or greenness one sometimes finds with Right Bank 1988s, just…