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2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

Good bright, deep red. Highly nuanced aromas of strawberry, flowers, cocoa powder, mocha, smoke and earth. Sweet and seamless yet taut too, already displaying great personality to the flavors of red and darker fruits, salt, pepper and earth. Wonderfully soil-driven wine with a very sweet, very long finish featuring noble, fine-grained tannins and terrific sappy…

Looking Back at the 2005 & 2004 Brunellos (Oct 2016)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is just beginning to open up. The flavors remain bright, focused and vibrant, but the tannins are quite silky, which gives the wines an unusual level of accessibility. Still, the 2004 is a real baby. Readers who can wait will be rewarded with a magnificent Brunello. The 2004 has…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon is exquisite. Fresh, floral and open-knit, the 2013 is a real charmer. Time has softened some of its intensity, resulting in a wine that is much more finessed than it was at the outset. Cedar, pipe tobacco, mint, dried cherry and orange peel are beautifully lifted. A healthy dollop of Cabernet…

2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017)

The 2013 Barbaresco Maria Adelaide is a selection of the best fruit from both Rabajà and Currà. It is also the most overtly ample and creamy of these wines. Here, too, the wine’s balance is simply compelling. Moreover, the natural power of Rabajà and the nerve of Currà are hugely complementary. The 2013 spent eighteen…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Chasse-Spleen is not a successful wine for the vintage. It begins well, with a tobacco-infused nose that offers plenty of black fruit, but the structured palate feels rather aggressive, stocky and slightly green toward the finish. This Moulis property has made some impressive wines in recent years, but the 2015 is not one…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Chasse-Spleen is a wine of finesse and grace. Floral notes, spice, leather and mint are beautifully delineated in this attractive, midweight wine. All the elements are very nicely balanced. Bright, saline notes extend the finish. Readers who appreciate the finer side of Bordeaux will flip out over the 2015.