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Napa Valley’s Thrilling 2018s & 2019s, Part 1 (Jan 2021)

The 2017 The Maiden is a deep, super-expressive wine. I am quite surprised by how rich the 2017 is, given a year in which many wines are on the lighter side. Dark red cherry and red plum fruit is front and center. There is some nervousness in the tannin so, even though The Maiden is…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a pixelated bouquet that blossoms in the glass. The terroir’s nobility really floods through here: animated red fruit and crushed stone, hints of white flower and freshly tilled earth. The taut, linear palate is quite strict; it’s a serious Clos Saint-Jacques with a long, saline finish. The…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru is more backward and tight on the nose than the regular Chevalier, though with aeration subtle Golden Delicious apple, white Chinese tea and citrus aromas emerge. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry. This has a little more nervosité than the regular cuvée and displays excellent delineation…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The usual blend of the four terraces, the 2019 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet featuring delicate scents of yellow plum, citrus fruit, flint and smoke. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Quite taut on the entry, and a fine saline undertow enlivens the finish. A classically styled Chevalier,…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a very taut nose at first, only reluctantly unfurling to reveal green apple scents with touches of honeysuckle and linseed developing with time in the glass. The well-balanced palate is fresh on the entry with a fine bead of acidity, perhaps just needing to manifest more terroir…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Echézeaux Grand Cru includes 25% whole bunches. This has a more floral bouquet, wilted red rose petals intermixed with crushed rock and brambly red fruit. Quite taut and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery tannins, impressive in terms of purity, with a dab of black pepper heightening the finish. Good precision throughout.