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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru had a soupçon of sur-maturité on the nose, just a faint touch of tinned prune underlying the red fruit. There is a touch of warmth here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, slight confit-like finish that feels just a little smudged by the 14.6-14.7° alcohol.

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2019 Barolo Cerretta is packed with dark cherry, smoke, gravel, blood orange incense, scorched earth, licorice and mocha. This ample, full-bodied Barolo offers tremendous depth and textural intensity. Powerful and brooding, with tons of muscle and tannin, the Cerretta is incredibly promising. It is the most potent wine in this portfolio, by a pretty…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 1er Cru, which includes 40% whole cluster, was quite backward on the nose, a bit broody and refusing to come out ‘n play. The palate is medium-bodied with finely integrated oak, quite chalky in texture, very good tension with a linear and energetic finish. Discrete, yet it should blossom with…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Beaux Bruns 1er Cru has an attractive nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, sous-bois, crushed stone and rose petals. It displays more vigour than the Chambolle-Charmes. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red cherry and strawberry fruit, desiccated orange peel and white pepper. Not complex yet it demonstrates more…

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Medium ruby. Lively aromas of blackberry, violet, licorice and black pepper. Rich but quite primary and fresh; still almost grapey today. But firmly built, intensely flavored and ageworthy. Finishes with a note of bitter chocolate.

Barbaresco: The Stellar 2021s & Surprising 2022s (Oct 2024)

The 2021 Seifile is terrific. It is also one of the most restrained vintages of this wine I can remember tasting, a reflection of a super-classic year marked by an October harvest. Dark cherry/plum fruit, mocha, lavender and spice build nicely in the glass. This is a wine of real character and personality.