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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de La Roche Grand Cru contains 80% whole bunches this year and underwent just a couple of punch-downs. There is a tiny amount of reduction on the nose as I taste it, gradually opening to reveal raspberry, blackcurrant and violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins matched with a very…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Pommard Les Rugiens-Bas 1er Cru has a taut and linear bouquet, nicely focused with blackberry and raspberry fruit, crushed stone and rose petal. Beautifully-integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, lightly spiced with vivacious red fruit and typical Pommard-like backbone on the sapid finish. Excellent. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with crisp blackberry, briary, crushed stone and light eucalyptus aromas that blossom with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, fleshy and harmonious with a touch of spice towards its very cohesive and sustained finish. Classy.

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a very endearing nose: red cherries, wild strawberries, undergrowth and Italian herbs, completely entrancing. This shows lovely delineation, terroir expression and a touch of eucalyptus that develops with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe red fruit. The oak here reminds me of Jadot. There are…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru comprises eight-and-a-quarter barrels this year. Interestingly, Bachelet lamented how the shallow soils exacerbate the drought conditions, to the extent that he is afraid that at some point in the future the parcel will need to be replanted with rootstocks more acclimated to a lack of moisture. The crystalline,…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

From the three youngest parcels in the clos, the 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis La Forge de Tart 1er Cru has a fragrant blackberry and briar bouquet plus light pressed iris aromas. The palate is medium-bodied, displaying touches of licorice on the entry, and nicely balanced with hints of graphite toward the finish. Fine.