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In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Antinori’s 2010 Tignanello is stunning, as it has been since I started tasting the component wines in 2011. Firm yet sweet, silky tannins form the backbone for this gorgeous, vivid wine. Dark red cherries, plums, cloves, mint and sage inform a Tignanello that impresses for its delineation, nuance and power. Clean, saline notes support the…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has a justifiably lofty reputation and this bottle is evidence that it has lost hardly any of its allure. Backward, almost surly on the nose at first, it opens gloriously with intense blackberry and blueberry fruit, pressed violet and background scents of a marshy estuary. Stunning delineation. The palate…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that has been variable over the years and this example merely adds to the bottle-to-bottle inconsistency. It starts promisingly with quite a mineral-driven bouquet, more intensity than the ’82 Beychevelle, plenty of black fruit mixed with undergrowth and leather, a touch of chlorophyll too. The palate is medium-bodied and…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Palmer has been inconsistent over the years, a majority indicating that a) they dropped an easy catch and b) it’s not a patch on the brilliant ’83. This bottle is weird: an off-putting geranium scent on the nose that obscures the fruit, whilst the palate is simple and rather hard, demonstrating some herbaceousness…

Chianti Classico: The Brilliant 2021s & Variable 2020s (Aug 2023)

The 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ipsus remains light and also a bit austere, although I note it is gradually emerging from its shell. There’s quite a bit of nervous tension that remains, and that I think it will always be part of the wine’s personality. I have tasted the 2018 numerous times and it…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione is ample, rich and quite seductive, which is to say very much in the style of the year. Dark red fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and incense all build as the 2017 shows off its considerable allure. This is so expressive today.