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Cellar Favorite: 1971 Cantina Mascarello Barolo (Sep 2018)

The 1971 Barolo is a real thrill to taste and drink. Let me emphasize that second point. So often, wines like this are tasted among many other wines. On this night the two of us savor every last drop of the 1971. I have had very mixed results with the 1971, to the point I…

2018 & 2019 Barbaresco Take Center Stage (Feb 2022)

The 2016 Barbaresco Rabajà is very nicely done. It offers up an enticing mélange of dark-fleshed fruit, spice, licorice, sage, tobacco and menthol, all in a relatively mid-weight, light style for this site. The 2016 won't make Giacosa fans forget about the 2001 or 2004, but it is certainly very nicely balanced. Overall, the 2016…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is the most severe and angular of these wines. It will appeal most to die-hard classicists. Chalk, white pepper, mint and sweet red cherry fruit all grace this chiseled, beautifully translucent Barbaresco. As always, the Ovello needs a number of years in bottle to reveal its charms, which in 2016…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(40% new oak; there was a bit of hail here, noted Raphael Coche, and the grapes were very ripe and tiny): Expressive aromas of white plum, hazelnut and nutty oak. Boasts an uncanny velvety texture over a powerful backbone of acidity and tannins, with the nutty oak and mineral flavors conveying outstanding energy. A great,…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

The 2013 Montrachet is surprisingly exotic, tropical and soft in the early going. Pineapple, passion fruit and sweet floral overtones all grace a supple, pliant Montrachet that is likely to peak sooner than some of the surrounding vintages. Tasted at the DRC Montrachet charity event in New York.

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Pale yellow. Sexy noble reduction to the musky aromas of lemon zest, flinty minerals, iodine and ginger. Pliant and thick but with buns of steel; powerful acidity and strong salinity frame and intensify the sappy flavors of lemon, grapefruit and iodiney minerality. In the ripest years, this wine can get a bit exotic but this…