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Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Inky ruby. Highly precise, mineral-accented black/blue fruit, exotic spice, olive paste and incense aromas pick up hints of smokiness and candied licorice as the wine opens up. Seamless and penetrating on the palate, offering urgent blueberry, cherry preserve, spicecake and floral pastille flavors and a strong jolt of smoky minerality. Deepens steadily on the strikingly…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

(100% vendange entier; tasted from stainless steel tank): Bright medium red. Sexy aromas of red cherry, red berries and spices, with a hint of more exotic fruits. Broad, fat and silky, in a rather gentle style. Plenty of soil tones here but fruity more than saline. Finishes with succulent, spicy, fine-grained tannins and very good…

2010 Brunello di Montalcino: A Promise Fulfilled (Feb 2015)

Cedar, smoke, tobacco, licorice, dark cherries and plums meld together in the 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Maddona del Piano. It is amazing to see just how much the Valdicava wines have changed over the last ten years or so. A decade ago, the Madonna del Piano was black, inky and impenetrable, but in 2009…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Vigneux offers attractive red currant and wild strawberry scents on the nose, which is cohesive and focused if not quite as charming as the 2019. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, soft red berry fruit and fine acidity, tapering in slightly toward the finish, where I would have liked a little…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Bright yellow with a green tinge. Aromas of nectarine, white pepper and spices are lifted by a hint of lavender. Brisk, energetic wine with noteworthy definition and delicacy to its complex flavors of citrus fruits and crushed-stone minerality. Very fresh for 2016, showing no dried-fruit character. This infant still needs time to knit but should…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru It has an intense bouquet – like other Meursaults from de Montille, carrying a little reduction, but with more crushed stone, mineralité and white flower scents than the Les Porusots. The palate is well balanced with impressive depth, tension and vigor, offering citrus lemon and orange pith mixed…