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Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Bourgogne Aligoté En Coulezain comes from the lower part of Volnay from mid-30-year-old vines with less skin contact than the 2019. It has a clean, precise and nicely focused bouquet with delicate touches of kerosene, white flowers and linseed oil. The palate is very well balanced with a little more complexity than the…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Sorbés 1er Cru is more tightly wound and backward compared to the other cuvées from Fourrier, neat and precise yet timid on the day that I visited the Domaine. The palate is well-balanced with a smooth opening, ripe and fleshy, fine acidity, building nicely to a more open and precise, sorbet-fresh…

Northern Rhône 2023: The Art of Perseverance (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Cornas La Geynale impresses with pronounced aromas of crushed violet, orange rind, black cherry, graphite, dried meat, blackberry jam, roasted herbs and a flicker of leather. Full-bodied and deeply concentrated, it's powerfully structured like a skyscraper, yet infused with lifting energy that balances its sheer intensity. Gracefully winding down with a long, savory…

Growing Up ‘n Getting Wiser: South Africa in 2022 (Sep 2022)

The 2019 Series C has a lovely tobacco and sage-tinged bouquet, a touch of white pepper developing with time. This has a strictness that I admire. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity and elegant tannins with a harmonious and persistent finish. I think this has the edge of the Series “M”,…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Ensigneres has a slate-tinged bouquet that just doesn’t quite have the charm of the Les Clous tasted alongside. The palate is more “happening” with citrus lemon, orange zest and light chai notes. It’s pretty measured on the finish. Fine, but perhaps playing it safe. Tasted at Dorian restaurant in London.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pavillon de Léoville-Poyferré opens with a gorgeous burst of ripe dark fruit, spice and tobacco. On the palate, though, the tannins are a touch grainy and harsh as the wine narrows through to a finish that is aggressive and attenuated. I would prefer to drink the 2018 sooner rather than later, as its…