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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Ruby-red, not quite as deep as the ’96. Exotic, sweet aromas of currant, lead pencil, spice and woodsmoke. A huge wine that conveys a sense of sheer power, but not quite as delineated or stylish as the ’96. This really explodes on the aftertaste, but the ’96 is more subtle. Clearly first-growth size, but less…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1995 Mouton Rothschild was tasted from ex-château bottles, and I had not tasted this vintage for a number of years. This puts in a very good performance given that it was not an auspicious decade for the First Growth. A mélange of red and black fruit gradually gives way to cassis on the nose,…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Palmer is exceptional. Soft, seamless and ample, the Grand Vin caresses the palate with stunning depth and intensity. Super-ripe black cherry, licorice, cloves, menthol and chocolate meld together in the glass. As always, Palmer is made from blocks on gravelly/clay soils (as opposed to the more gravelly/sandy soils for Alter Ego) which gives…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Palmer has a relatively straightforward nose, more austere than its peers—not in a negative way, just reserved and a little leafier. The palate is overtly sweet, almost candied on the entry, with a very concentrated orange zest and marmalade sorbet-like quality. This is perhaps missing a little Margaux DNA on the finish, but…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Inky ruby. Highly expressive, spice-accented black and blue fruit preserves, incense, vanilla and pipe tobacco qualities on the nose, with cedary oak and spice note emerging with aeration. Offers palate-staining cherry liqueur, blackcurrant and fruitcake flavors that are braced and sharpened by a spine of smoky minerality. Gains weight with air while retaining vivacity and…

South Africa: 2021 New Releases from the Cape (Nov 2021)

The 2019 Seriously Old Dirt comprises 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Malbec, 5% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. It has a savory nose of dusky black fruit and a touch of smoke and bacon fat. The palate is medium-bodied with quite dry tannins on the entry, moderate depth and a slight attenuation toward the finish. Just…