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Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2019 Beychevelle remains glorious on the nose with detailed red berry fruit, incense and wilted rose petals. Maybe a little more understated than its peers? It has an endearing purity. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm grip, outstanding balance, very well poised with just a touch of glycine toward the finish. Yet another…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Angélus is a dark, powerful wine. Black cherry, violet, chocolate, leather, torrefaction and cloves are some of the many aromas and flavors that give the wine its dense, heavily extracted feel. There is no shortage of intensity today, but the real question is whether there will still be enough fruit once the tannins…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Angélus has an attractive nose with dark berry fruit, chocolate, singed leather and quite pronounced Cabernet Franc scents that lend complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a very silky texture. Not a powerful Angélus, this is instead refined with impressive mineralité towards the finish. Classy and sophisticated. Just one caveat:…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Château Margaux is slightly bricking on the rim, quite deep in color. The nose has retained satisfying freshness. Dusty red bricks and gravel scents infuse the mainly red fruit. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, harmonious, fresh with good tension and touches of white pepper and clove. It approaches full…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Léoville Poyferré has a magnificent nose that is a cut above its peers: more concentrated, more delineated and has stunning depth with complexity that only comes through with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, but this Saint-Julien has real backbone and density, with impressive substance towards the finish. One of the…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 895) Saturated, bright ruby-red. Brooding, liqueur-like aromas of blackberry, cassis, smoked meat, licorice and menthol. Compellingly dense, sweet and concentrated, with silky fruit that saturates the entire palate without any excess weight. A very backward, firmly structured wine that offers an uncanny combination of early sweetness and firm but harmonious acidity. The wine’s dark…