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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Argillats 1er Cru has an expressive and well-defined bouquet of brambly red berry fruit, sous-bois and orange peel scents that gently unfold in the glass. The medium-bodied palate offers just a touch of licorice on the entry. Very saline in the mouth with fine-boned tannins and a more sophisticated finish…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Argillats 1er Cru has a very focused, well-defined, quite spicy bouquet with ample red fruit and hints of black fruit that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is well balanced, with quite saturated tannin and good acidity, but dense and rather opaque at the moment. This is a Nuits Saint-Georges…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Dark red. Slightly less expressive on the nose today than the village Gevrey, with aromas of plum, cherry, mocha and earth joined by a note of woodsmoke. Boasts good thickness and a restrained sweetness but less showy and interesting today than the Gevrey–more medicinal and closed, and in need of time to fill in. Tannins…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(this vineyard features more clay than most Volnay premier crus, but the crop level was very uneven in 2016 owing to the frost, with the bottom of the vineyard wiped out, the middle portion missing 30% of its normal fruit and the top overloaded, according to Sieve; vinified with one-third whole clusters and aged in…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Pommard Les Cras finished its malolactic in October, a month prior to my tasting, and had recently been sulfured. It features crunchy red berry fruit, the one-third whole cluster lending a little pepperiness. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins and good acidity, and lively in the mouth, leading to a slightly brittle…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Volnay Les Taillepieds 1er Cru is better on the nose than its peers. Lifted blackberry, raspberry and sous-bois aromas become more floral with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit and some stem addition that does not quite assimilate towards the finish, as if there are two Volnays…