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Vintage Retrospective: The 2007 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2017)

(14.5% alcohol): Saturated dark ruby! Ripe but reticent aromas of blackberry, boysenberry, bitter chocolate oak, licorice and mocha are very subtle and complex. Wonderfully pliant and balanced wine, with plush purple fruit and violet flavors displaying a smooth grain and superb depth. Spreads out to saturate the middle palate and builds slowly and inexorably on…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Goulée by Cos d'Estournel is an intensely savory, aromatic Médoc. Tobacco, spice, cedar, mint, dark cherry, licorice and incense all grace this mid-weight wine. Silky tannins round things out in style. The 2019 is a charmer.

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Goulée by Cos d'Estournel was bottled in March 2021. It has clearly maintained the fragrant bouquet that I noticed from barrel, with vivacious red cherries intermingling with cranberry and wild strawberry aromas, identical to the showing en primeur. The palate has firmed up a bit, turning more angular and crunchy, and there’s a…

1996 Piedmont: The Proof is in the Pudding (Oct 2017)

Gaja’s 1996 Darmagi is terrific. In fact, the 1996 is one of the best vintages of Darmagi I can remember tasting. Varietally expressive, with tons of Cabernet Sauvignon character, the 1996 makes a very strong case for itself, something that isn’t always true. A host of mocha, plum, lavender and spice notes flesh out in…

An Ineluctable Pair: 2017 Vintage Ports (Jun 2019)

The 2017 Taylor’s Vintage Port comes from their three quintas: Vargellas, de Terra Feita and do Junco, picking commencing at Vargellas on September 1, the earliest since 1945. Now this boasts a bold and more flamboyant bouquet vis-à-vis the Croft with layers of blackcurrant, blueberries, violet and allspice. Wonderful definition here and as it ratchets…

Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Village, a blend of three parcels, offers bright red cherry and loamy scents on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with quite sharp acidity and grainy tannins, just a bit raw on the finish at the moment.