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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Pommard Les Rugiens-Bas 1er Cru, which includes two-thirds whole clusters, has a well-defined and complex bouquet, a cousin of the Pezerolles in some ways. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, displaying a little more matière and slightly creamier in texture than the Les Pezerolles, leading to a precise, persistent, slightly more opulent…

2011 Brunello di Montalcino: Terroir Matters (Feb 2016)

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is a classic Valdicava wine built on power, intensity and depth. Black cherry, smoke, licorice, dark spices and menthol make a strong first impression, followed by huge waves of tannin and acidity that will require at least a few years to settle down. In a part…

The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo (Jul 2020)

The 2014 San Leonardo is understated at first, yet remarkably pretty and poised. The 2014 shows floral-laced strawberry and cherry, with hints of fresh thyme and cedar dust coming forward over time. Fleshy textural fruits soothe all that they touch, while remaining balanced and cool-toned. Gentle acids aid that tug at the cheeks, while sweet…

Trentino: New Releases (Jan 2019)

Bright red ruby. Refined aromas of red fruit, spices, minerals and herbs. Then dense and multilayered, with a juicy tang to the red and blue fruit flavors present. Finishes long with outstanding clarity and cut thanks to harmonious acidity. Less concentrated and complex than some other famous vintages of this historic Italian wine (which is…

Picture This: Domaine Henri Gouges 1945 – 2016 (Oct 2018)

The 2012 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 1er Cru has an absolutely charming bouquet with pure red cherry, strawberry and cranberry scents, and an underlying mineral note that becomes more prominent with aeration. It just feels refined and self-assured. The palate is very poised and harmonious on the entry, a mixture of red and black fruit,…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Moderately saturated medium red. Musky aromas of wild strawberry, earth and spices. Juicy and intensely flavored but tight, even a bit tough, with savory soil tones dominating. This very structured wine appears to be going into a shell.