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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 895) Saturated, bright ruby-red. Brooding, liqueur-like aromas of blackberry, cassis, smoked meat, licorice and menthol. Compellingly dense, sweet and concentrated, with silky fruit that saturates the entire palate without any excess weight. A very backward, firmly structured wine that offers an uncanny combination of early sweetness and firm but harmonious acidity. The wine’s dark…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2005 Lafleur has always been a bit of a beast. It is clearly nowhere near its drinking window either on the nose or palate. Blackberry, gravel, wild heather and graphite scents reluctantly emerge on the nose, but it is a little surly compared to the 2008, for example. The palate is huge in terms…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Dark violet color. Powerful, spice- and mineral-tinged black and blue fruits, incense, violet and smoked meat on the expansive nose. Rich yet surprisingly energetic, offering palate-staining blueberry, cherry-cola, floral pastille and licorice flavors that become sweeter as the wine opens up. Shows excellent energy and spicy thrust on the clinging finish, which is given shape…

Northern Rhône: A First Look at the 2019s (May 2020)

A complex, assertively perfumed bouquet evokes smoky, mineral-accented blackberry, cherry, olive, violet candy and cracked pepper. Sweet, focused and penetrating on the palate, offering intense black and blue fruit, floral pastille and cola flavors that steadily flesh out with aeration. The smoke and floral notes come back emphatically on a strikingly long, smooth finish that's…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2007 Comtes de Champagne Rosé is a very pretty wine to drink now and over the next two decades. Soft and inviting, with good energy, the 2007 is impeccable in its balance. Crushed red berry fruit, blood orange, cinnamon, rose petal and mint all meld together in this gracious, mid-weight Rosé from Taittinger. At…

2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

The 2016 Barolo Terlo Vigna Costa Grimaldi is a pretty, translucent wine, and also a very good example of where Einaudi is headed stylistically. Dried red cherry, mint, wild herbs and crushed flowers are all nicely lifted. In this vintage, the Terlo comes across as quite perfumed, but also lacking some of its customary depth…