Archives: Product Reviews

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2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Saturated dark red. Deep, nuanced nose combines dark fruits, minerals and underbrush. Sweet and highly concentrated but tight and backward, even a bit sullen today; fruit and stone flavors are quite primary for the vintage. Finishes with substantial broad tannins and very good grip. May ultimately merit an even higher rating.

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Good medium red. Deep, sappy aromas of black cherry, minerals and smoked meat. Silky and thick on entry, then rich and vibrant in the middle palate, with no impression of excess weight. Finishes very long, with unusually silky tannins for the year. These 2004s are approachable from the start, although I would wait on this…

Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche 1974-2010 (Feb 2021)

The 1999 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has an intense nose, a mixture of red and black fruit intermingling with white pepper and clove. Perhaps this is not quite as complex as I expected. The palate is medium-bodied and supple, red cherries mixed with black plum, fine acidity, slightly brawny in style but you…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

(from a full crop level of 40 hectoliters per hectare, approximately the same yield as in 1996 and 1990) Saturated ruby-red. Extravagant nose combines blackberry, blueberry, gun metal and a hint of liqueur-like ripeness. Lush, large-scaled and highly concentrated, with compelling cherry, raspberry and red licorice flavors framed by oak. This has a big structure…

2009 Barolo: Highs and Lows (May 2013)

The 2009 Gaia & Rey (Chardonnay) is relatively laid back in this vintage. Soft, floral and perfumed, the 2009 opens up beautifully in the glass with juicy pears, apricots, white flowers and a gentle hint of spices. This is a pretty Gaia & Rey that impresses most for its textured, layered personality. The prominent oak…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Bright yellow. Complex, leesy aromas of tropical fruits, butterscotch and roasted notes, with an element of oak char. Big and lush, with a captivating medicinal herb quality. Rich and inviting wine but not a fruity style. The persistent finish shows a slight phenolic quality.