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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru has a detailed bouquet of dark cherries, blueberry and pressed iris, an undertow of sea spray and petrichor emerging with time. Less floral than previous vintages, it is nevertheless extremely well focused. The palate is medium-bodied and you are immediately struck by the harmony of this wine. Elegant and discreetly…

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Deep, brilliant ruby. Offers sharply defined, mineral-inflected red and dark berries, cherry liqueur, pipe tobacco, vanilla and exotic spice scents. Chewy and penetrating in the mouth, offering concentrated black raspberry, bitter cherry, boysenberry and spicecake flavors that steadily become more lively on the back half. The strikingly persistent finish features polished tannins, repeating minerality and…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Suduiraut, 100% Sémillon in this vintage, is a dense, tightly wound wine that is going to need a number of years to come around. Passionfruit, ginger, spice, mint, apricot and tangerine peel build nicely in the glass. The 2020 is a blend of four picks from mid-September to early November. All the elements…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Suduiraut, which is pure 100% Sémillon, has a fabulous, rich and expressive bouquet with wild honey and orange pith, dried mango hints and quince laced with melted candle wax and saffron. The palate is supremely well-balanced with the viscous texture and density you would expect from this estate. Yet there is a sense…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Rieussec, which I did not taste either from barrel or after bottling, has quite a powerful bouquet with good levels of botrytis, though not necessarily complex or nuanced. Touches of orange blossom and quince. The palate is well-balanced with fine depth on the entry, quite pure and judiciously spiced, hints of stem ginger…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Rieussec is absolutely gorgeous. Gracious and supremely elegant in feel, the 2019 is immediately impressive. An exotic melange of lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers, passionfruit and tangerine oil opens effortlessly. The 2019 is compelling from start to finish. Harvest took place from October 8 to 15, in three passes. The 2019 is the…