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New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2017 Masseto is fabulous. A wine of tremendous inner perfume and sensuality, the 2017 dazzles from start to finish. Although not the most potent or structured Masseto, the 2017 impresses with its breathtaking finesse. The flavors are vibrant and remarkably pure from start to finish. Blackberry jam, bittersweet chocolate, spice, lavender and licorice all…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Léoville Barton does not have the same vigour as the Poyferré ’90 and is hampered by a bit of brett. Tertiary in style, it offers scents of wild mint and light violet, though it needs more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, very malleable in texture, harmonious with an old-school, slightly…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Léoville Barton was ordered from the list at the 1925 Bistro in Bordeaux so we could raise a glass to Anthony Barton. This bottle seemed different from my last: more intensity on the nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, brown spices and cedar. The palate is not as light as I…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Aromas of black cherry, cedar, graphite and licorice, along with a faint herbaceousness. In a distinctly more austere style than the ’99, and rather unforthcoming today. Has clarity and cut, but is there enough mid-palate material to support the firm tannins?

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Very pure aromas of black cherry and licorice, with faint nutty and herbal nuances; comes across as distinctly riper than the Langoa. Dense and chocolatey, with sound acids and underlying minerality giving the flavors impressive clarity. Richly oaky. Finishes long, with big, ripe tannins.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1988 Ducru-Beaucaillou, a late picked vintage (30 September to 12 October) feels a little staid on the nose. Black fruit, touches of lavender, but there seems to be little energy or tension. The palate is better with black cherries and briary, but there is a greenness that is more jarring here than on the…