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Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Cheval Blanc contains more Cabernet Sauvignon than usual due to the reconfiguration of the blend after frost. Pierre Lurton and his team took the bold decision to express the growing season rather than the classic Cheval Blanc blend. It has a crisp blackcurrant and bilberry scented bouquet with touches of mint and cedar,…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Redcurrant, leather and game on the expressive if slightly rustic nose. Sweet and concentrated but a bit youthfully aggressive, and not showing the refinement or definition of the 2006. Strong nutty oak component. Finishes with substantial tannins that are a bit richer and more fully buffered by the wine’s middle-palate material than those…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose, which was decanted for 30 minutes upon my request, replicated its performance a couple of years ago. This was the final vintage to include Malbec (1%). It has a very “useful” bouquet of blackberry, juniper berries and cedar that opens with vigour in the glass with satisfying intensity. The palate is…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Monvigliero, another new wine in this range, is dazzling. That's not much of a surprise, as the 2018 has always been gorgeous from barrel. A touch of whole clusters adds aromatic nuance and lift to this super-classic, sculpted Barolo. The Monvigliero impresses with its purity, delineation and class. Superb.

Italy Odds & Ends – 2017 (May 2017)

In 2008, Quintarelli did not bottle Amarone, but instead chose to declassify the juice into Rosso del Bepi. Fragrant and expressive, with a good deal of aromatic nuance, the Rosso is a terrific choice for readers who want to explore the Quintarelli style, without splurging for one of the flagship Amarones.

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(from 30-year-old vines): Bright medium yellow. Aromas of yellow fruits and menthol are complemented by smoky minerality. A bit tighter on the palate than the village wine, with ripe lemony acidity giving it better balance and vivacity. Slightly edgy on the very dry finish but shows good spicy lift.