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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Ducru Beaucaillou was picked from 30 September according to the château’s records. This was the period where some of the stock was afflicted by a taint from the roof of one of the storage cellars, though this bottle was clean. It has an attractively fresh and quite youthful bouquet compared to its peers…

Focus on the Languedoc (Jul 2000)

From a sample bottled yesterday: Bright, saturated ruby-red. Subtly perfumed aromas of redcurrant, leather, and iron. Dense, sweet and thick, with a remarkably chewy texture. Tannins spread out horizontally on the palate. Very long but a bit squashed by the bottling. From a sample bottled a month prior to my visit: Good deep red. More…

Digging up a Languedoc Treasure: Mas de Daumas Gassac 1978-2022 (Jul 2024)

The 1998 Rouge is a massive step up in quality compared to the preceding vintage. It is savory to the core, showcasing prominent leather, black fruits, forest floor and iodine nuances. Supple and expressive, the full-bodied 1998 is a concentrated powerhouse built for the long haul.

Digging up a Languedoc Treasure: Mas de Daumas Gassac 1978-2022 (Jul 2024)

The medium to full-bodied 1991 Rouge is terrific. Swirling the glass unlocks a pronounced cigar box, dried lavender, sage, dried black fruits and touches of graphite. On the palate, the outstanding 1991 flawlessly merges refreshing acidity, elevated flavor concentration and fine-grained tannins. This one is totally worth the hunt.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1995 Angélus has a gorgeous bouquet with savoury red berry fruit, meat juices, cumin and light ferrous notes—very complex and engaging with fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a savoury entry, and the tannins have softened since I last tasted this vintage. It's decidedly old-school in style, and maybe a bit Bretty? But…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2008 Brane-Cantenac is still marked by eucalyptus scents on the nose, though not as pronounced as in the bottle I tasted several years ago. Quite fresh with a decent amount of blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, it gradually becomes more pastille-like in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, a keen line…