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2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Ausone is a deep, statuesque Saint-Émilion that is at the beginning of what will surely be a very long, long life. Its vertical energy, stunning aromatics and persistence are all things of beauty, but it is the balance here that is so captivating. The acids and tannins are at once searing in their…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Ausone has a perfumed nose with another Cabernet Franc-driven set of aromas, gravel and loam infusing the black fruit. Wonderful delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a beautifully sculpted wine with a killer line of acidity and immense precision on the finish. This just sashays along with style. Fabulous. Tasted blind…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

Bollinger’s 2007 R.D. is superb, but it is also a wine that reflects the nature of a unique and challenging growing season. In most vintages the R.D. is marked by the distinct creaminess and breadth of Aÿ Pinot Noir. Two thousand seven, though, was a difficult year marked by very dry weather, rain at the…

2018 & 2019 Barbaresco Take Center Stage (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barbaresco is an attractive, open-knit wine to drink now and over the next 10-15 years, maybe more. In 2018 the Produttori did not bottle their Riservas. Instead, all of the best lots of those grapes went into the straight Barbaresco bottling, another in a long string of successes from this historic house. Dark…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2015 La Grande Dame, in magnum, is terrific. It offers a bit more mid-palate presence than the wine from bottle. Citrus confit, orchard fruit, white flowers and spice are beautifully amplified by the big bottle. Brisk acids pull it all together on the vibrant finish. In large format, the 2015 Grande Dame is seriously…

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2015 La Grande Dame is superb. Bright and vibrant in the glass, it impresses with its energy and focus. The 2015 packs a lot of intensity in its medium-bodied frame. Tasted after the 2012, the 2015 has a bit less body in the mid-palate but more explosive energy leading into the finish. Pear, white…