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1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Good full red. Less obviously ripe aromas of black cherry, dark berries, cocoa powder, and smoke, plus a faint medicinal nuance. More open in the mouth today than Beaucastel’s ’97; shows lovely sweetness and texture and very good cut and thrust. Hints of leather and game. Not quite as ripe as the ’97, but finishes…

Germany 2009: Everybody’s Darling (Jan 2011)

Golden yellow. Christmas fruitcake with cherry, white raisin and a trace of honey on the nose. Glossy, creamy and rich on the palate, with subtle slate and brown spices and a floral element interwoven with the wine’s glorious nectarine fruit. The brown spice botrytis element adds complexity to the persistently mineral finish. What an auslese!

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

The 2003 Clos du Mesnil is insanely beautiful. Vivid, resonant and textured in the glass, the 2003 boasts magnificent depth and pure breed. Since I last tasted it a few months ago, the 2003 has begun to shut down, which is probably a great sign for its future and overall longevity. Hints of smoke, slate…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Bright, deep red-ruby. Primal crushed raspberry and game on the nose, with musky suggestions of coffee and mocha. Densely packed and distinctly wild in the mouth, with a juicy quality to the black fruit flavors. This is a bit reduced today but the tannic finish boasts very strong and persistent fruit and mineral flavors.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Bonnes-Mares from de Vogüé is compact and powerful on the nose, with blacker fruit than the preceding two Clos Vougeots. There is a touch of cola and cough candy here, though they feel incongruous. The palate is medium-bodied, not quite as muscular as other wines from de Vogüé from this period, with slightly…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Superripe aromas of black plum, blueberry, graphite, mocha and wild herbs; there’s something almost Bordeaux-like about this. Then dense, sweet and powerful, with a seamless, fine-grained texture and a richness verging on chocolatey. Less perfumed than the Chambolle cuvees, but with no shortage of sap. Most impressive today on the back end, finishing…