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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion was double decanted, assessed after two hours and then over 24 hours, initially blind against La Mission Haut-Brion. There is more red fruit on the nose compared to the La Mission Haut-Brion, wild strawberries commingling with raspberry, light tobacco scents and shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion is an infant, but its balance and potential are both amply evident. Rich and deep in the glass, the 2018 opens to reveal tremendous complexity and nuance, qualities that only grow with time. The 2018 is not a huge Haut-Brion, nor is it massively endowed, but it is so elegant and classy….

La Paulée de San Francisco – Rare Wine Dinner (Mar 2010)

The opening flight of Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles from Domaine Leflaive was utterly staggering. The 2002 was seamless, ripe, opulent and intricately woven, with a kaleidoscopic, vivid expression of fruit that was breathtaking. The 1996 showed more advanced notes of smoke, tar and licorice, all wrapped around a massive core of fruit. It was a profound…

2003 and 2002 White Burgundies (Sep 2004)

Nectarine, peach and honey on the musky nose; a bit less forthcoming today than the Folatieres or Combettes. Then quite tangy and fresh in the mouth, with suggestions of exotic fruits and brooding power. This shows superb volume and length, but seems a bit disorganized today. Morey prefers this wine among the 2002 premier crus,…

2003 and 2002 White Burgundies (Sep 2004)

Complex, precise aromas of apricot, mirabelle , honey and smoke. Silky, fat and full if quite dry; considerably richer than the young 2003, with sound framing acidity. Finishes very long, with a subtle whiplash of flavor. This has filled in quite nicely since I tasted it from barrel last spring.

A Look Back at the 2004 & 2005 Barbarescos (Jun 2016)

The 2004 Sorì San Lorenzo is incredibly sensual and layered in this vintage, almost uncharacteristically so. With time in the glass, some of the more typical brooding notes emerge. Hints of smoke, hard candy, black cherry, herbs, graphite and French oak meld together effortlessly. In 2004, the interplay of the finesse of the vintage and…