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2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2019 Barolo Ravera is the most intensely mineral and saline of the Barolos. Crushed rocks, white pepper, flowers, orange zest, red berry fruit and bright acids all run through this finely sculpted, chiseled Barolo. Readers who enjoy Barolos of energy and tension will adore the Ravera. I have always had a soft spot for…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2006 Clos de Tart was one of the better wines from Sylvain Pitiot’s era. It has evolved a little since my last tasting in 2018. The broody black fruit on the nose still oddly harks toward Bordeaux. It’s not as tight-fisted as before. The palate is structured with a lot of substance; what it…

2013 Napa Valley: Once Upon a Time in America… (Oct 2015)

The 2013 Second Flight is dark, powerful and incisive, with layers of graphite-infused minerality that are pushed forward. This is perhaps the most intense, brooding Second Flight I have tasted so far. Unctuous and deep to the core, the 2013 possesses magnificent concentration to match its spherical texture. Lavender, rose petal, mint and a host…

California’s North Coast (May 2014)

(53% merlot, 36% cabernet sauvignon and 11% cabernet franc): Sappy aromas of black raspberry, bitter chocolate, menthol, iron, violet and rose petal. Densely packed and broad, with an insinuating sweetness to the fine-grained flavors of dark berries, flowers, iron, hot bricks and minerals. Finishes classically dry, with lush tannins coating the front teeth. A very…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2012 Second Flight is just starting to show the first signs of aromatic development. Dark cherry, mocha, licorice, tobacco, scorched earth and dried herbs are nicely delineated. This is an especially savory Second Flight from the early days of this wine before the estate had more clearly defined it as a Merlot-based blend. As…

The Best New Wines from Central Italy (Mar 2013)

Fully saturated ruby. Complex nose offers dark cherry, plum sauce, eucalyptus, tobacco and camphor. Dense, rich and powerful, but conveys an impression of energy to its ripe dark fruit, balsamic and vanilla flavors. Sneaky concentration here. Features a very soft, creamy yet sharply delineated mouthfeel perked up by harmonious, lively acidity. Vibrant red cherry and…