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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright, full red. Sensational perfumed nose shows a musky element of wildness along with aromas of dark cherry, raspberry, wild strawberry, cocoa powder, brown spices and earth. A compellingly rich, horizontal wine that spreads out to coat every square millimeter of the palate. Quite firmly built–even a bit youthfully imploded–but this wine is already an…

2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

The 2016 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is a vibrant, massively tannic, austere wine, the likes of which I have never tasted here before. Vertical and explosive in the glass with tons of pure power, the 2016 Gavarini Chiniera is a gorgeous Barolo that is going to need a number of years to be at its best….

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red color. Complex aromas of black cherry, currant, chocolate, herbs, licorice and tobacco leaf. Fairly sweet and dense on the palate, with very good concentration and firm acidity for the year. This is aged in 100% new oak, but the wood is very much in the background. Finishes very long and subtle,…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1997 Lafite-Rothschild is certainly one of the better First Growths of this somewhat maligned vintage. Gravel, pencil shavings and light tobacco notes furnish the mature nose that is open-knit and perhaps missing some vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, balanced and conveying some of Lafite’s elegance, yet it does taper quickly on…

2016 Barolo, Part 2 & Late Releases (Oct 2020)

The 2015 Barbaresco Pajè is the most nuanced and complete of the four wines in this lower tier of vineyard designates. Deceptively light in body, the 2015 possesses striking complexity and dimensions. Breadth and power are implied more than overtly stated. Clean, minerally notes punctuate the finish. The Pajè packs a serious punch. It will…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Nuits Saint-Georges Village has a tertiary, slightly mulchy bouquet that unfolds in the glass and gains delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very fresh, a little attenuation towards the finish but it should give several years of drinking pleasure.