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A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is curiously a little disjointed on the nose compared to its peers, though it coheres with pretty red cherry, wild strawberry, undergrowth and tobacco. The aromatics grow on you. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins that frame the hoisin-tinged red fruit. Slightly powdery in texture towards the…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good deep, fresh red. Lively aromas of black cherry, licorice and menthol. Silky-sweet on the palate, with solid minerality enlivening the black raspberry and licorice flavors. Densely packed wine with lovely emerging perfume of lavender, spices and white pepper. Finishes with ripe tannins. The crop level was a very-low-for-the-vintage 35 hectoliters per hectare due to…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2011 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses is bright and perfumed, with lovely Chardonnay energy driving the citrus, floral and savory notes. In 2011, Clos des Goisses is a touch lithe, but its balance is simply impeccable. Given the challenges of the year, I would not push my luck on aging. If there is one wine…

Domaines Great & Small: Burgundy Interim Report (Aug 2025)

The 2006 Echézeaux Grand Cru, the maiden vintage, has a simple bouquet with fully mature scents of leather, musk and pain grillé, the oak a bit too present even after almost two decades. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy with supple tannins and gentle grip, pleasurable but missing the cerebral aspect that Louis-Michel has introduced…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good deep, dark red. Sexy aromas of musky red raspberry, smoke, minerals and earth; cooler than the 2007. Suave on entry, then quite tight in the middle, with a fine grain to the brisk red fruit flavors. Very bright, perfumed wine with the energy of the vintage’s best examples. Finishes with terrific lift. At once…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deep ruby-red color. More expressive aromas of crystallized dark berries, dark chocolate and animal fur. Lush and sweet; thick but delineated. Wonderfully concentrated. This, too, seems rather withdrawn today, but the strength of material is clear to see. Finishes with firm tannins and explosive fruit that goes on and on.