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South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Vin de Constance is limpid silver-gold in the glass. It has a bouquet of acacia honey, marmalade and pressed yellow flowers, plus a slight adhesive note in the background; I cannot recall a Vin de Constance with such intense aromatics. The palate is viscous on the entry, and a vital bead of acidity…

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2016 Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn is a fabulous, incredibly complete wine that soars out of the glass with explosive structure and vertical lift. The tannins are very much present, but also matched beautifully by the wine’s aromatic intensity and overall drive. Dark macerated cherry, spice, leather, licorice, plum and mocha add darker shades of nuance….

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that I have tasted three times in recent months. It is an excellent vintage for the Saint-Émilion estate. Refined on the nose, black plum mixes with wild strawberry, iron filings (borrowed from Pomerol?) and hints of blood orange, with mocha in the background. A lot is going on…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal Rosé is unquestionably one of the greatest wines longtime Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has made at Roederer. Bright saline and chalky notes run through a core of vibrant, red-toned fruit. The 2008 is tightly wound and nervous, yet it also has more than enough depth to keep it from being overly…

The Misunderstood Margaux: Marquis de Terme 1947-2021 (Oct 2024)

The 1998 Marquis de Terme has a bold and assertive nose with what feels like more new oak than preceding vintages. It’s a little brash and, as such, denuding it of the terroir expression displayed by the 1989. The palate is again rich and toasty with plush black cherry and blueberry fruit. It’s quite Napa…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Clerc Milon has plenty of red berry fruit, kirsch, touches of liquorice and cassis. The palate is medium-bodied and fresher than the Armailhac with supple tannins and notes of white pepper and liquorice. This comes across surprisingly sweet and spicy on the finish, though it lacks the complexity and elegance of the very…