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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

(15.5 alcohol!): Good deep, bright ruby-red. Extravagantly rich aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, bitter chocolate and coconutty oak. Like liquid silk in the mouth, but with outstanding verve to the huge, palate-saturating flavors of blueberry, violet, espresso and minerals. This is almost too much of a good thing today in a Napa cult wine way,…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 55% merlot and 45% cabernet franc) Very deep purple-ruby. Sexy, oak-spiced black cherry and blackberry aromas are accented by mocha and vanilla, with a sneaky violet note emerging with air. Concentrated cassis and oaky flavors are impressively bright, with tangy minerality adding energy. Balanced and suave, showing impressive finishing length, with mounting,…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Angélus has a well-defined bouquet with intense black cherries, boysenberry, crushed stone and pressed violet petal aromas that are focused and well delineated. Frankly, this is a step up compared to some of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, a superb bead of acidity, very cohesive and developing a…

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Deep ruby-red. Roasted black cherry on the nose. Rich, supple and chocolatey in the mouth, with modest nuance today. Best right now on the persistent finish, which features big, chewy tannins. Jaboulet decided against making Chateauneuf du Pape in ’99, said Laurent, because the stuff for sale was awful.

1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Medium plummy red. Open nose combines red plum, redcurrant, tobacco, cinnamon and earth, plus hints of chocolate and licorice. Round and gentle in the mouth, with good balance for the vintage but only moderate depth of flavor and structure. Fairly tannic finish, but the tannins are fine. Will provide early pleasure.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium ruby-red. Plum, game, nuts and saddle leather on the nose. Nicely textured, smooth and vinous, with enticing plum and smoke flavors; if the ’98 is like Pauillac, this is quintessential St. Julien. Finishes with ripe tannins and good length.