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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good full red. Pure, high-pitched nose offers minerals, brown spices, Cuban tobacco and menthol. Powerful and deep, with strong minerality giving energy and sap to the wine. Perhaps best today on the sweet, lush back end, where the wine’s minerality contributes to a rising, wonderfully long and fresh aftertaste. (Incidentally, an early look at the…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

Recent vintages of the 2005 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru have left me not particularly impressed. In this era, the winemaking duties were undertaken by Benjamin Leroux; this magnum was bought by current winemaker Paul Zanetti. I just find it trying much too hard to make an impression. The aromas are bold and in…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Saturated ruby. Superripe but fresh aromas of black raspberry, licorice and spices, with a hint of more exotic fruits. Sweet but not quite jammy, with very rich and distinctly black fruit flavors complicated by spices and bitter chocolate. A Pommard of compelling depth and verve, with flavors mounting slowly and inexorably to take over the…

Napa Valley Trilogy: 2014, 2015 & 2016 (Dec 2016)

The 2014 Second Flight bristles with all the energy and tension that is such a signature of the vintage. Dark flavors abound, with plenty of black cherry, mocha, espresso and graphite overtones layered throughout. The 2014 is an especially muscular, brooding Second Flight. Accordingly, it is likely to require at least a few years to…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Mouton Rothschild takes a few swirls of the glass to coalesce, slightly minty black fruit commingling with cassis and iris flower. Doesn’t quite “flow” like subsequent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy on the mid-palate and concentrated in the context of the vintage. A touch of burnt toast and white…

Napa Valley Trilogy: 2014, 2015 & 2016 (Dec 2016)

The 2014 Screaming Eagle looks like it is going to need a good few years at a minimum to really show its true colors. Although Screaming Eagle can be quite seductive in its youth, there is little of that in 2014. Virile and imposing, the 2014 possesses tremendous depth and equally formidable tannins. Graphite, gravel,…