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Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2000 Cos d’Estournel, which never quite grabbed me from barrel, is maturing nicely in bottle. As it approaches two decades, it continues to offer an intense, almost ambitious bouquet with blackberry, hints of dark chocolate, tobacco and scorched earth. Both vigor and delineation is present here. The palate is medium-bodied rather than full-bodied these…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Cos d’Estournel is quite deep in colour with only faint bricking on the rim. The nose evokes an era when I feel that the winemaking team back then pushed the concentration to the maximum. So we have black plum, a touch of prune mixed with marmalade, scents redolent of a richer growing season,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good red-ruby. Deep, aromatic, highly complex nose combines raspberry, espresso, tree bark, leather, graphite, cedar, coconut and exotic woodsmoke. Lush, sweet and pure, with very ripe flavors of currant, dark chocolate and graphite, nicely framed by perfectly integrated acidity. Finishes broad and suave; the tannins here make those of the young 2004 seem a bit…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot and 5% petit verdot): Bright ruby-red. Cassis, licorice, menthol and violet on the nose. Supple, smooth and moderately sweet, with a lightly medicinal character to its dark berry, licorice and herb flavors. Harmonious acidity extends the fruit on the slightly warm finish, which dusts the mouth with tannins.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Glass-staining deep purple-ruby. Exotic notes of Oriental spices and cedar complicate ripe plum and blackberry jam aromas. Fresh and clean on entry, showing a peppery lift to the rich blackberry and mineral flavors. The wine’s youthful tannins will require at least a couple years to resolve fully, but this is a very successful, elegantly styled…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep ruby-red. Aromas of cherry, mocha, milk chocolate and iron. Chewy and on the dry side but stuffed with flavors of cherry, plum, iron, tobacco and mocha. This has fat and sweetness for the year, along with a suggestion of herbs. Finishes with dusty tannins and moderate lift.