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Cellar Favorite: 2016 Domaine François Raveneau Chablis Valmur Grand Cru (Jan 2025)

What a pleasure it is to taste Raveneau’s 2016 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru. Floral overtones lead into hints of candied lemon peel, white flowers, marzipan, mint and white pepper, all framed by a discreet touch of oak. The 2016 has come together beautifully over the last few years, seemingly gaining mid-palate weight in bottle. Even…

Mirror Image: 2016 & 2017 Chablis (Aug 2018)

The 2016 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is more reticent and perhaps not quite as complex as the Blanchots on the nose, but with aeration reveals gorgeous scents of dried flowers, hints of honeysuckle and beeswax. In the mouth Valmur is very well balanced and tightly wound, but there is enormous concentration on the back palate…

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

Pale yellow. Slightly exotic on the nose for Valmur, offering aromas of orange zest, lemon and spices. Then wonderfully silky in the mouth, delivering a sexy sweetness to its pliant flavors of citrus fruits and ginger. The yield here was an almost normal 40 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 25 to 30 for the Blanchots…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru has a creamy nose with touches of white chocolate, almond and chamomile. However, considering the vineyard in question, I would have liked more mineralité and terroir expression. A bit of alcoholic warmth develops in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Tightly coiled citrus fruit,…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru is very well defined on the nose with Clementines, crushed stone, a touch of grapefruit and petrichor. It unfolds beautifully in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a slightly waxy opening, a judicious touch of spice, quite tangy towards the finish with a long ginger-tinged aftertaste. Powerful, for…

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

The 2012 Cuvée S is quite shy today. I take that as an excellent sign for its long-term prospects. Bright, vibrant and super refined, the 2012 starts to open with a bit of coaxing. Most bottles have been much more open than this.