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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Mouton-Rothschild feels surprisingly reduced on the nose and needed a lot of coaxing. Leather, mocha, liquorice develops in the glass, quite bretty compared to its peers. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy and ripe, that mocha translating over from the nose, minty with touches of white pepper on the finish. A very decent Pauillac,…

Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond (Feb 2023)

Sweet spices, autumnal leaves, wild strawberries and white smoke hints make the 2019 Colore a total pleasure on the nose. This is wildly energetic and spry with tart wild berries accelerated by zesty acidity. Its fruits are crisp and pure, driven by saline minerality and exotic spices. The 2019 finishes lightly structured and buzzing with…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Pavillon Rouge is soft, supple and open knit, with plenty of dark red cherry, cherry pit, tobacco and brambly flavors. Initially a bit brooding, the 2012 becomes more finessed with time in the glass. Sweet floral and minty notes add freshness on the finish. The tannins are silky and polished throughout. Drink this…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux has a pretty nose with well-defined, predominantly red fruit mixed with rose petals and scents of bergamot tea. Understated yet focused and delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. Quite spicy with a generous dollop of black pepper mingling with tobacco notes towards the structured finish. This…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Deep red-ruby. Blackcurrant, licorice and a whiff of smoke on the nose. Fresh, expressive flavors of redcurrant, tobacco, fresh herbs and bitter chocolate are enlivened by good vinosity. Finishes with building but ripe tannins, a delicate herbal touch and a restrained sweetness.

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2012 Brane-Cantenac was a relatively late-ripening vintage for which harvest finished on October 16. This is far better than the 2011 with more fruit and vigour. Finely delineated blackberry, wild hedgerow and graphite scents continue to lend it a Pauillac-like allure. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and vivid black fruit laced with…