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Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru conveys strictness and correctness on the nose compared to the more expressive and perhaps more aromatically elegant Blanchots. This is a little austere at first, but it warms up nicely and reveals subtle orange blossom and undergrowth scents. The harmonious palate is very well balanced, with hints of white…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Romanée-Conti and Montrachet (Feb 2015)

Next to the super-refined, delicate 2006s, the 2005s come across as deeper and richer in personality. That is quite evident in the 2005 Échézeaux, a wonderfully lifted, precise Burgundy that is just starting to blossom. Today, the 2005 is all about nuance and detail. This is a terrific showing. Once again, in 2005 the Échézeaux…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Explosive aromas of redcurrant liqueur, tobacco, tar, minerals and chocolate, plus hints of decadent underbrush. Sweet redcurrant and mocha flavors show a slightly roasted aspect and elevated alcohol but also possess very good vinosity, with complicating soil tones adding nuance. Finishes uncompromisingly dry, with substantial tannins. I’d expect this seriously deep wine…

Priceless: Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1945 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 2002 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a wine that I have met for five years. Examining my previous note, this seems to have meliorated in recent years, displaying outstanding transparency on the nose, more mineralité than the 2002 Les Cras poured alongside (also blind). Perhaps there is a little more black fruit here than I…

The Glorious 2002 Red Burgundies (Feb 2016)

Good medium red; not especially saturated. Hugely aromatic nose offers flamboyant red berry, truffle and earth scents, but this bottle is beyond its floral stage. Sweet, plush and concentrated, showing a wonderfully silky texture to its slightly high-toned berry flavors. Really flows on the middle palate but the wine’s tannic spine gives support to the…

Burgundy Focus 3: Mugnier’s Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru 2007-1980 (May 2023)

The 1999 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses 1er Cru had a deeper hue than other vintages. Blackberries, Earl Grey, almost pastille-like, one has to step back and admire the precision of this wine. The aromatics are more powerful than the 2002. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, good density and very pure but with a little…