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Focus on the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2010)

(15% alcohol) Dark ruby. Subdued but pure aromas of blackcurrant, coffee and vanilla on the atypically restrained nose. Enters broad and plump, then shows a distinctly restrained sweetness to its blackberry, blueberry and coffee flavors. Finishes ultra-smooth and refined. Though I like this rather politely styled, adult version of Masseto, those who yearn for the…

2024 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Ornellaia captures all the magic of this sensational vintage on the Tuscan Coast. Rich, ample and expansive, with tremendous polish, the 2021 is pure class. Dark-toned fruit, mocha, espresso, licorice, plum and dried herbs abound. The tannins are present but also beautifully integrated, as is the French oak. There was a time not…

New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2009)

Bright purple. Complex, pungent aromas of raspberry, blackberry, potpourri and incense, with a suave mineral note adding vibrancy. Sweet, minerally and densely packed, with terrific sappy vivacity to the flavors of raspberry and cherry preserves and minerals. With air, the spiciness gained strength and sexy floral notes emerged. Finishes with impressive breadth, fully ripe, gentle…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright, full ruby. Brooding aromas of cassis, black cherry, minerals, bitter chocolate, shoe polish and violet; more Pauillac than Saint-Julien on the nose. Then rich, lush and powerful, with impressive fullness and volume. As full and sweet as this is, there’s no impression of excess weight and the back end shows a distinctly austere quality,…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Powerful, dense and explosive, the 2015 Péby Faugères is superb. Black cherry, mocha, tobacco, menthol and licorice are racy and voluptuous in the glass. Readers should expect a super-ripe, flamboyant wine loaded with personality. Péby Faugères is 100% old-vine Merlot from the heart of Silvio Denz’s Saint-Émilion property. Done in an extravagant style, Péby is…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good medium red. Dark raspberry, coffee and spicy oak on the nose; this wine’s flamboyant ripeness almost came as a shock following the more reticent 2006s. Big, round, plush and ripe, with spicy dark raspberry and chocolate flavors and considerable density for village wine. Quite smooth and harmonious at the moment: Roumier volunteered that this…