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2025 Tuscany Preview (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Masseto is elegant and polished, just as it was when I first tasted it a few months ago. Bright red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, menthol and cinnamon all meld together nicely in the glass. The lighter style of the year is evident, but there are no hard edges or awkward contours. The 2022…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva pulls you close to the glass with a deep and seductive display of black raspberry preserves complemented by sweet sage, dried roses and pipe tobacco. With further coaxing, it gains in volume and lift, taking on hints of mint and camphor. This greets the palate with undeniable elegance, casting…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion was double decanted, assessed after two hours and then over 24 hours, initially blind against La Mission Haut-Brion. There is more red fruit on the nose compared to the La Mission Haut-Brion, wild strawberries commingling with raspberry, light tobacco scents and shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion is an infant, but its balance and potential are both amply evident. Rich and deep in the glass, the 2018 opens to reveal tremendous complexity and nuance, qualities that only grow with time. The 2018 is not a huge Haut-Brion, nor is it massively endowed, but it is so elegant and classy….

La Paulée de San Francisco – Rare Wine Dinner (Mar 2010)

The opening flight of Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles from Domaine Leflaive was utterly staggering. The 2002 was seamless, ripe, opulent and intricately woven, with a kaleidoscopic, vivid expression of fruit that was breathtaking. The 1996 showed more advanced notes of smoke, tar and licorice, all wrapped around a massive core of fruit. It was a profound…

2003 and 2002 White Burgundies (Sep 2004)

Nectarine, peach and honey on the musky nose; a bit less forthcoming today than the Folatieres or Combettes. Then quite tangy and fresh in the mouth, with suggestions of exotic fruits and brooding power. This shows superb volume and length, but seems a bit disorganized today. Morey prefers this wine among the 2002 premier crus,…