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Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2019 Giscours has been a little variable from bottle to bottle. This is definitely one of the better ones: more defined and mineral-driven than the ’18, with blackberry, wild strawberry and cedar unfolding on the nose. The oak is neatly integrated. Very poised, the palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, lightly spiced with white…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Léoville Poyferré is a vintage I have tasted several times, but wow, this knocked the ball out of the park. Stunning aromatics with vivacious black and red fruit, sage and cedar and light rolled tobacco notes that surface with aeration. Real poise and elegance. The palate is medium-bodied with impressive delineation and depth,…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Léoville Las Cases can be a fabulous wine, although like others there is variation. This has a refined and delineated bouquet with more black fruit compared directly with the Poyferré, cedar and iris flower, scents of Earl Grey emerging with time. I admire the focus and it coheres beautifully in the glass. The…

1997 and 1996 Sauternes (Jul 1999)

Straw-gold. Marzipan, honey and toasted hazelnut on the nose. Moderately viscous and currently rather oaky. Has an impressively chewy texture but is not yet displaying its personality. Finishes with some youthful harshness. The ’97 is at once stronger and finer.

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright, full red. Alluring, terroir-driven aromas of raspberry, minerals, dried flowers, smoky oak and game. Supple on entry, then reticent and taut in the middle, but already showing outstanding energy and depth, not to mention a slightly musky wildness, to its flavors of raspberry, smoky oak and dried flowers. Between the wine’s firm acidity, great…