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Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Les Butteaux 1er Cru offers intensity similar to the Montmains, but this is a little more petrolly on the nose, which is beautifully defined and very focused, developing a faint nuttiness with aeration. The palate is well balanced and conveys a sense of energy on the entry. Saline to its core, this…

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Ornellaia Bianco is a powerful, dense wine. Orchard fruit, chamomile, saline notes and dried flowers open in the glass, but only with great reluctance. A rich white, the 2018 Bianco possesses tremendous weight, but it is also very much closed in on itself. I am intrigued to see how the 2018 ages.

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is very attractive and quite complex on the nose with light waxy, dried honey and pressed flower scents. The aromatics here have drive and focus. The palate is well balanced with beautifully-integrated oak, real depth and cohesion—a crescendo that leads to a refined and yet energetic finish that has the…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Certan de May is reticent and severe, both on its own and certainly in comparison with most Pomerols in this vintage. Tobacco, cedar, licorice and sweet red cherry struggle to emerge. My impression is that there is a lot of potential, but that potential is not always realized. I expected more here.

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Certan de May is a curious Pomerol. As I mentioned in my note from barrel, it has an open-knit nose of red berry fruit, touches of black tea, white pepper and damp earth. The palate is cohesive on the entry with light tannins, and a little more angular than its peers (especially juxtaposed…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Meursault Genevrières 1er Cru sports a small reduction on the nose, though there is definitely plenty of fruit underneath, touches of grilled walnut and smoke. Subtle, yet convincing. The palate is well-balanced with fine-boned structure, focused and saline, almost Puligny-like towards the finish. This is a classy offering that it does require some…