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Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2024: Dark Elegance (Oct 2025)

The 2014 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé Pignan is gorgeous, though readers are well advised to allow it at least five more years in bottle, or else open it a good 12 hours in advance without decanting. Supremely elegant notes of kirsch, stemmy tones and fresh violets mingle with herbal glimmers on the beguiling nose, immediately signaling a…

Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Brilliant red. Ripe red berries and potpourri on the lively, mineral-accented nose, with suave floral and allspice qualities adding complexity. Juicy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors show excellent precision and vivacity, with a hint of white pepper contributing cut. Asian spice nuances come up on the clean, tightly focused finish, which is given shape by…

Penfolds Collection 2021 (Jul 2021)

Dark, bright-rimmed violet color. A wild, highly complex bouquet evokes spice-tinged black/blue fruits, pipe tobacco, savory herbs, potpourri and olive paste. Weighty and yet energetic in style, offering mineral-driven bitter cherry, cassis, chewing tobacco and exotic spice flavors that turn sweeter through the back half. Round, slowly building tannins give framework to a very long,…

Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2019)

The 2014 Le Pergole Torte is slender, nuanced and very pretty. It is also not anywhere as complete or memorable as it has been previously. I very much like the energy in the 2014, but several recent bottles suggest there is a high level of variation in this wine, too high for a wine of…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru belts out of the glass with blackberry, raspberry and crushed stone aromas, the most vigorous of the Premier Crus at this juncture. Wonderful definition. The palate is harmonious, poised, and demonstrates more substance than the other crus with a slightly confit finish that lingers seductively. This could age…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2002)

Full red. Cool, precise, highly perfumed nose combines dried flowers, truffle and mint. Wonderfully concentrated and dense, with superb clarity of flavor and lovely incipient inner-mouth perfume. If the Gallina is a more feminine style, this is the big boy of the cellar. Hugely sweet and impressive; a major mouthful of wine. Slow-mounting, spicy finish…