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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Dark red. A sexy hint of woodsmoke complements sweet scents of cherry liqueur and purple berries. Tight-grained and fine, but with terrific inner-mouth lift to its dark berry, spice and violet flavors. Wonderfully juicy, lively wine with a light touch. Not a fleshy powerhouse, and not showing the obvious mineral structure today of the Ruchottes-Chambertin,…

The Wine Was Chambertin: Rousseau 1919-2017 (Jun 2022)

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru is just a glorious success. Vivid red fruit, Morello cherries, wild strawberry and pressed violets on the nose, the aromatics here feel so animated and exquisitely defined. The palate is perfectly balanced with a killer line of acidity: crystalline red fruit, filigree tannins and more freshness than it knows what…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The maiden 2021 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Rouge comes from three parcels totaling 2.5 hectares, 85% from the lieu-dit of “Piece Dame Marie”. It has a nicely controlled bouquet with brambly red fruit and dried rose petal. Perhaps it needs a little more intensity? The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fresh and vibrant…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru is very reductive on the nose, and at the moment it smothers any sense of terroir expression. The palate is bright with red cherry and strawberry fruit, a keen line of acidity and plenty of tension. There is still a veil of reduction, making it difficult to assess…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a potent eucalyptus scent on the nose that feels incongruous and yanks the aromatics away from where this wine was born. It actually intensifies with aeration. The palate is sweet and candied on the entry, plush with exotic red fruit. It feels somehow unnatural when compared to its peers….

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Ducru-Beaucaillou is phenomenally great. Inky, powerful and explosive, the 2015 pulses with energy in all of its dimensions. Creme de cassis, blackberry jam, graphite, smoke, leather and incense, along with the wine’s muscular tannins, convey an impression of brooding intensity. The 2015 has been nothing short of sensational on the two occasions I…