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Top New Non-Vintage Champagnes (Dec 2011)

(42% pinot noir and 29% each of chardonnay and pinot meunier; disgorged March, 2008): Vivid gold. Pungent pear skin, orange and yellow plum on the nose, with a spicy overtone. Rich but energetic, offering powerful orchard fruit flavors and notes of anise, honey and dried apricot. Shows very good clarity on the finish, with the…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2000 Figeac is similar to the bottle tasted at the château just three months earlier. Still a tad rustic on the nose with singed leather and earthenware infusing the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, quite Left Bank in style, a little rough in texture with a slightly herbaceous finish. Maybe marginally better…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Wild, expressive aromas of black raspberry, cedar, lead pencil, mocha, coffee and animal fur. Fat, silky and lush yet dry; a thick, round Figeac with impressive volume. Even the merlot in 2000 showed solid structure. Like the 2001, this shows an intriguing burnt note. Finishes with big but suave tannins and lingering notes…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Haut-Brion has a more sophisticated and delineated bouquet than the 2005 La Mission Haut-Brion with layer upon layer of pure black fruit commingling with crushed stone, Montecristo cigar and light black olive scents. It becomes more floral as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly powdery texture and…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

($3120) Good red-ruby. Knockout nose of black raspberry, tobacco and flowers; vibrant for 2003. Then dense, creamy and seamless yet almost shockingly vibrant, with outstanding balance and an impression of firm acids. In fact, this is the highest in acidity of these 2003s, with a pH of 3.5 (the rest are between 3.6 and 3.65,…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru had only just finished malolactic with no SO2. Nosing this wine, I felt judging based on this sample would be unfair. I will seek to taste it later on.