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2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

Deep red. Sexy, high-pitched aromas of fresh red berries, lavender and Indian spices, plus a touch of olive. Sappy and precise, with very good lift and clarity to its black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors. Puts on weight with air and finishes sappy, penetrating and very long, with slow-building tannins. Quite rich and powerful for…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Bring It On (Jun 2024)

The 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé is at the start of its broad drinking window. Prominent kirsch liqueur, forest floor, strawberry compote, dried meat, rosemary, pressed violets and sage are only some of the many aromas and flavors that jump out of the glass. Refined to the core, the athletic 2012 packs a laser-like focus and flawlessly…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2024: Dark Elegance (Oct 2025)

The 2014 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réservé Pignan is gorgeous, though readers are well advised to allow it at least five more years in bottle, or else open it a good 12 hours in advance without decanting. Supremely elegant notes of kirsch, stemmy tones and fresh violets mingle with herbal glimmers on the beguiling nose, immediately signaling a…

Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Brilliant red. Ripe red berries and potpourri on the lively, mineral-accented nose, with suave floral and allspice qualities adding complexity. Juicy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors show excellent precision and vivacity, with a hint of white pepper contributing cut. Asian spice nuances come up on the clean, tightly focused finish, which is given shape by…

Penfolds Collection 2021 (Jul 2021)

Dark, bright-rimmed violet color. A wild, highly complex bouquet evokes spice-tinged black/blue fruits, pipe tobacco, savory herbs, potpourri and olive paste. Weighty and yet energetic in style, offering mineral-driven bitter cherry, cassis, chewing tobacco and exotic spice flavors that turn sweeter through the back half. Round, slowly building tannins give framework to a very long,…

Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2019)

The 2014 Le Pergole Torte is slender, nuanced and very pretty. It is also not anywhere as complete or memorable as it has been previously. I very much like the energy in the 2014, but several recent bottles suggest there is a high level of variation in this wine, too high for a wine of…