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2023 Burgundy Supplement (Feb 2025)

The 2018 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is airy and nuanced in the glass. Crushed rocks, mint, white pepper and slate are all finely sketched. Readers will find a wine of subtlety. There’s a touch of reduction that I suspect will always be part of the wine’s personality. Clean, saline notes extend the crystalline finish. The 2018…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Talbot has a delightful bouquet with brambly red berry fruit, leather and undergrowth, fine delineation and beautifully integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, very well balanced, not powerful, but there is plenty of finesse here and a lovely touch of black pepper lingering on the aftertaste. Give it another…

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1996 Beychevelle has a light nose with caramel-tinged red fruit, a little soft and muffled, though not unpleasant. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins on the entry. There is quite a bit of brett here, rather gamey toward the finish. I don’t mind this 1996, but it is showing its age. This ought…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Very good ruby-red. Spicy, expressive aromas of currant, leather and milk chocolate, plus a suggestion of stewed fruit. Sweet, lush and superripe in the mouth; the faint pruney quality repeats on the palate. Tannins are a bit tough. A whiff of damp earth on the finish detracts from the wine freshness.

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1967 Palmer is a vintage that I had not encountered for many years. It has a gorgeous, mellow, fully mature, almost Burgundy-like bouquet with melted red berries, thyme, fennel and a light irony note. The palate is tart and medium-bodied with a grainy entry, high acidity, brown spices and sandalwood. Obviously, this is mature,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot; 13.35% alcohol; pH 3.85; 76 IPT; 40% selection) Deep ruby. A very classic nose of cassis, cedar and smoky graphite is devoid of animal and earthy scents and conveys a sense of refinement rare for this wine. Then very smooth in the mouth, with excellent palate…