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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru belts out of the glass with blackberry, raspberry and crushed stone aromas, the most vigorous of the Premier Crus at this juncture. Wonderful definition. The palate is harmonious, poised, and demonstrates more substance than the other crus with a slightly confit finish that lingers seductively. This could age…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2002)

Full red. Cool, precise, highly perfumed nose combines dried flowers, truffle and mint. Wonderfully concentrated and dense, with superb clarity of flavor and lovely incipient inner-mouth perfume. If the Gallina is a more feminine style, this is the big boy of the cellar. Hugely sweet and impressive; a major mouthful of wine. Slow-mounting, spicy finish…

The Many Different Chiles of Chile (Mar 2020)

Almaviva’s first harvest, in the middle of March, set the tone: a base of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carménère and Cabernet Franc from Puente Alto, Maipo. Brick orange in the glass with mahogany and ruby flashes, it presents a developing nose of Bach flowers, dates, truffles, musk, saffron and glue with a mentholated air. The layers keep…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good full red. Reticent nose suggests cherry, licorice, flowers and truffle. Displays the copious sweetness of the vintage but with terrific focus and underlying spine. A stony, minerally pinot with real delicacy and cut. The long, noble finish offers a lovely combination of silk and stone and enticing lingering perfume. An archetypical Volnay that combines…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Château Margaux is adorned with a captivating, very floral crushed violet bouquet that blossoms in the glass. Perhaps it has a little more sophistication than the ’82 Mouton. This bottle leans a little more towards red than black fruit. Stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with lace-like tannins, very poised and focused, fresh…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Palmer is beautifully defined on the nose with pencil lead infused black fruit, crushed stone, and hints of pressed flowers. Amazingly well focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple and exquisitely sculpted tannins, unerring symmetry with a crescendo towards the utterly harmonious and persistent finish. This exudes a sense of completeness. Tasted blind…