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Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 1995 l’Eglise-Clinet is a wine that I have tasted many times, although probably the most interesting was when Denis Durantou poured a magnum against a bottle. One common trait throughout all the bottles is a delightful Provençal-tinged bouquet, hints of sage and wild fennel that percolate through the red berry fruit. There is power…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Superb deep ruby-red color. Tangy dark berries, smoke and roast coffee on the nose, plus a vaguely gamey, truffley element. Almost painfully intense and sappy today, but this very dense, very sweet wine is beginning to close down. A huge wine whose finishing fruit buries its substantial ripe tannins. Wow!

A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)

The 1995 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 25 September and 5 October. It has a straight-laced bouquet with earthy red berry fruit, tobacco and a light touch of peppermint. The aromatics feel pinched and do not quite “flow” in the same manner as more recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with soft and rounded tannin,…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Bright red. Complex aromas of raspberry, smoke and pepper. Juicy and penetrating on the palate, but a bit lean following the bottling. Slightly dry tannins currently shorten the fruit, but I find this wine subtle and rather stylish.

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

1995 L’Evangile (aged in 42% new oak, a bit higher than average for this property): Deep ruby-purple color. Pristine, minerally, sappy, black and blue fruit nose, with a floral, violety cabernet franc aspect. Creamy-rich in the mouth, but clearly delineated and firmly structured; offers great depth of chocolatey fruit. Great persistence on the palate, with…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a perfumed nose and is rather floral in style. Traces of blue fruit and pressed iris flower combine succinctly with the red fruit. Again, there is wonderful delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It’s cohesive and smooth in texture, nothing weighty. The 2021 might lack density…