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Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Saturated ruby. Brooding aromas of black fruits, minerals and coffee; at once medicinal and liqueur-like, but showing more freshness than usual in 2013. Huge but still raw at this stage, with rather large-scaled, mouthfilling flavors (for the year) of dark berries and flinty ripe plum, along with an obvious herbal element. Shows a boatload of…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

Plums, blueberries, cassis, violets and sweet spices meld together nicely in the 2013 Léoville-Poyferré. Many of the signatures are in place in the 2013, they are just present in miniature. The fleshy, textured finish offers plenty of near and medium-term appeal. In a second tasting, the 2013 showed plenty of depth but also imposing tannins….

Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva comes across as a bit laid back relative to the 2001 and 2004 in this flight, but that is to be expected. Silky and perfumed at first, the 2006 has plenty of depth and overall structure, but those qualities are expressed in an understated manner. Time brings out the…

Vinous Table: La Trompette, London, UK

The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is the surprise package. Quite deep in color, this has an intense nose with black cherries, licorice, iodine and crushed violets that outclasses the 2001 Riserva. The palate displays impressive concentration without compromising elegance, extraordinarily pure, with a texture that bears similarities to the 1990. Tender, long and vibrant…

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

The 2012 Cuvée S is quite shy today. I take that as an excellent sign for its long-term prospects. Bright, vibrant and super refined, the 2012 starts to open with a bit of coaxing. Most bottles have been much more open than this.

Domaine J-F Mugnier Musigny Retrospective: 1993-2016 (Feb 2025)

A big, ripe, buxom, sumptuous Burgundy. The nose is exuberant with black fruit, as is the palate. Right now this wine is like a warm blackberry sorbet. The long finish and the tannic backbite foretell a long life. At this point the warm vintage dominates the vineyard, but this wine has all the ingredients for…