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Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

A darkly alluring mix of crushed stone and black cherries is complemented by sweet pipe tobacco and hints of cedar as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Colombaio blossoms in the glass. This is surprisingly delicate in feel yet salty to the core, featuring a savory mix of woodland berries contrasted by hints of sour citrus….

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru comes from a single parcel of vines. This has more terroir expression and flintiness than the Champs Canet, which rests more on its concentration. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly “oily” textured opening and fine acidity, quite linear in style. It needs a little more substance and…

You’re Unbelievable: Bordeaux 2022 (May 2023)

The 2022 Talbot was picked September 9-28 at 40hL/ha, slightly higher than other estates, matured in 60% new oak. Jean-Michel Laporte told me that he did a slightly longer maceration than in 2019 and 2020 during its 3.5 weeks cuvaison. It has a fragrant bouquet, well-defined with black cherries, cassis, iris and touches of brown…

2022 Bordeaux En Primeur: Balance Imbalance (May 2023)

The 2022 Talbot is another impressive effort from the château. Savory and nuanced, the 2022 its wonderfully energetic in the glass. Dried herbs, incense, tobacco, menthol and licorice all build in a potent, virile Saint-Julien that checks all the right boxes.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Medium saturated ruby-red. Aromas of raspberry, espresso, cocoa powder and sexy oak spices. Sweet on entry, then supple in the middle, with an edge of acidity. Finishes with good breadth, tongue-dusting tannins and notes of black fruits and mint. My enthusiasm was tempered by a slight green streak running through the wine.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Saturated ruby. Deep-pitched red/blue fruit liqueur aromas pick up suggestions of licorice, pipe tobacco and pungent flowers and herbs with air. In a lush, weighty style, offering expansive black raspberry, cherry cola, singed plum and fruitcake flavors sharpened by a jolt of spiciness on the back half. For all this wine’s richness, it’s energetic as…