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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Bright red-ruby. Pure aromas of raspberry, violet and minerals. Suave and supple but classically dry, with an enticing floral character throughout. Very stylish, smooth wine, with tannins nicely buffered by berry fruit.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pavillon Rouge has a respectable bouquet with brambly red fruit, orange rind, freshly-rolled tobacco and peppermint. This is actually fresher than some Grand Vins tasted. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins on the entry, raspberry, strawberry and a touch of white pepper. It has a slightly savory finish. Smooth and very drinkable….

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good ruby-red. Currant, black raspberry, cocoa powder and graphite on the nose. Silky on entry, then impressively sweet in the middle palate, with classic Pauillac flavors of currant, chocolate and graphite dominating. This boasts the sharp focus of the vintage’s best examples but can’t quite match the 2006 for consistent ripeness and mid-palate depth. Tannins…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pontet Canet was when Alfred Tesseron applied biodynamics on the Merlot for the first time. It has a lifted, red berry, blood orange and graphite-scented nose that is nicely focused, perhaps just a little rustic around the edges. The palate is medium-bodied with a minty opening, fine depth and crisp tannins. It’s grippy…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Deep ruby-red. Wonderfully vinous and sappy for the vintage, with aromas of redcurrant, mineral and spice. Sweet, rich, lush and exotic but with good spice character giving lift to the flavors. A very fine-grained wine that will give relatively early pleasure, but it can’t match the 2004 or 2005 for backbone. Finishes dry and classic,…

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2004 Giscours has a respectable bouquet given the growing season—well-defined, traditional claret in every way with shades of forest floor and graphite. Well-balanced with slightly dry tannins, it’s missing a little backbone towards the finish. I suspect it will not improve with bottle age.