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Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Cantenac Brown is a knock-out. A Margaux of towering intensity, the 2020 is dense and vertical at the same time. It’s a combination that works so well. Dark cherry, plum, chocolate, new leather, licorice and cloves all saturate the palate. There’s real depth and concentration here from the summer heat and small size…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Cantenac Brown has a more reductive nose than its peers—the aromatics are not coming out to play on this occasion. But in the glass, it does have real complexity. The palate is medium-bodied, though not quite as precise as its peers, with a little chewiness toward the finish. This does not engage as…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

Once again, the 2012 Dom Pérignon is stellar. It’s a potent, tightly-wound Champagne. That should serve it well in the future, but today, the 2012 is not terribly expressive. Time in the glass brings out striking aromatic top notes and plenty of energy to match. Low yields, down 30-40%, produced a wild, dynamic Champagne endowed…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 La Chapelle de la Mission Haut-Brion was shockingly good at the blind tasting six years ago. Here, it has a simple nose with red berry fruit, rose petals and dried prune. Missing a bit of freshness and class. The palate is medium-bodied with a muted opening. There’s something just a bit forced about…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

Today, the 2014 La Chapelle de La Mission Haut-Brion is powerful, structured and also a touch compact, with a bit less apparent breadth than it showed from barrel. Smoke, tobacco, licorice, cedar, French oak and dark stone fruit notes struggle to fully emerge. Today the tannins are especially forbidding. There is good energy and tension…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Chapelle de la Mission has quite an intense blackberry, tobacco and leather-scented bouquet with just a hint of liquorice percolating through with time. The palate is medium-bodied, quite elegant on the entry, nicely proportioned with a fine bead of acidity. Graceful in style, this is a very attractive, easygoing 2012 that should age…