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A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru feels rather oaky on the nose compared to others, not quite as well knitted and obscuring some of the terroir expression. The palate is balanced with a tangy entry, quite spicy and fresh with some solids lending complexity towards the finish. This develops nicely in bottle although it…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 L’Esprit de Chevalier Blanc has a taut, stony nose with orchard fruit, dewy meadow and light citrus peel aromas, quite linear and shrugging off the warmth of the summer. The palate is well-defined with a slightly honeyed note, the Sémillon more in the driving seat despite representing 40% of the blend. Fine tension…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 L'Esprit de Chevalier Blanc is bright, taut and nervy, almost surprisingly so for a second wine. Crushed rocks, lemon peel, mint, white pepper and sage lend tightness and energy. I won't be surprised if the 2020 turns out even better than this note suggests. I especially admire the tension here.

New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2009)

(a 52/48 blend) Deep violet with a bright rim. Cherry-vanilla, blackberry and cola on the nose, with complicating notes of mint, vanilla and dried flowers. Sweet dark berry flavors pick up a tangy edge with air, along with vanilla and candied floral qualities. Finishes on a sweet dark berry note, with dusty tannins adding grip…

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

(bottled in March; a blend of 65% grenache, 20% mourvedre, 10% syrah and 5% counoise, muscardelle and vaccarese) Moderately saturated red-ruby. Complex nose melds redcurrant, kirsch, iron, tobacco, mocha and spices. Chewy, intensely flavored and fairly deep, but rather tight following the bottling. As usual for this estate, in a rather claret-like style, without the…

Germany 2006: An Unusual Auslese Year (Jan 2008)

Lovely aromas of pineapple, peach, nutmeg and vanilla. The luscious papaya fruit is carried by an elegant framework of acids and slate. Classy, concentrated wine with a long, vibrant finish featuring a note of toasted hazelnut. One of the finest spatleses of the vintage, this is destined to be long-lived, even if it does not…