Archives: Product Reviews

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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Canon just misses a little delineation on the nose, smudged red berry fruit, desiccated orange peel, camphor and fresh figs. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, a generous dab of white pepper sprinkled over the red fruit, clove and sage towards the balanced and focused finish. Perhaps just compromised by the aromatics…

Going Underground: Clos Fourtet 1989-2019 (May 2025)

The 2015 Clos Fourtet was picked between September 18 and October 12 at 42 hl/ha. This has an entrancing bouquet with ebullient red cherries, raspberry and allspice, hints of cedar manifesting in the background. Very harmonious and focused aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, wonderful poise and a judicious dash of spice…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Clos Fourtet is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty in 2015. Powerful, vivid and wonderfully nuanced, it exudes class. Inky red/purplish stone fruit, lavender, spice, mint and orange peel give the 2015 its myriad shades of nuance, but it is the wine’s balance and total sense of harmony that elevate it to the realm of the profound….

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Haut-Bailly has a concentrated bouquet with more floral scents than its peers, violets and iris petals infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Quite mineral-driven, leading to a vibrant finish full of tension. There is classy winemaking behind what is clearly a very…

Vinous Table: TentaziOni, Bordeaux, France (Jul 2019)

We start with the 2012 Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello, which is everything I expect. Perfumed, gracious and utterly sublime, the 2012 is all nuance. It is a real treat to taste and drink after two weeks of tasting embryonic six-month-old Bordeaux. It is also absolutely gorgeous with some of the lighter first courses on the…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Léoville-Poyferré has developed into a fabulous wine. Surprisingly rich, the 2021 possesses notable depth. Kirsch, blood orange and wildflowers open first, lending a decidedly exotic, perfumed quality. On the palate, the 2021 is fleshy and expressive. There’s a bit of new oak that needs to integrate. Otherwise, the 2021 is impeccably balanced. Tasted…