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The Glorious 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2018)

(tasted from a 375-milliter bottle): Very bright red with ruby tones; looks like a young wine. Deep, dark red and black fruit aromas are complicated by cinnamon, black pepper, roast coffee and a hint of truffley underbrush. Wonderfully rich but classy and reserved, and not a bit heavy. Utterly silky, plush, energetic wine with a…

Vinous Table: Mudan Tempura – Taipei, Taiwan (Feb 2025)

The 1999 Musigny Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru from de Vogüé doles out pure dark berry fruit commingling with melted tar. Maybe there’s just a touch of TCA? The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite robust and missing a bit of grace. Certainly, it would not be my first port of call if seeking Pinoté….

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good full ruby. Perfumed redcurrant, blackberry, violet and licorice on the closed nose; this is much more characterized by red fruits than usual, and has less of the Oriental spice elements that I typically associate with this wine. At once ripe and cool, showing very smooth, dense, seamless red berry, dark cherry and licorice flavors….

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Petrus has plenty of fruit on the nose, elegant and floral, redcurrant and raspberry fruit, a touch of crushed stone and pressed rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with a rich and quite extravagant style of the finish, lightly spiced with a rounded, velvety-smooth and quite dense finish. Maybe it just conveys a…

2009 and 2008 Chateauneuf du Pape (Mar 2011)

Vivid ruby. Enticing aromas of raspberry, dried flowers and spice cake. Sweet and penetrating, offering sappy flavors of red and dark berries, candied flowers and chewing tobacco. Combines depth and juiciness smoothly, finishing with gentle grip and persistent florality.

Vinous Table: Mount Sinai Charity Dinner at Saison (Nov 2019)

The 2009 Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru is classic RSV, with beautifully perfumed aromatics to match its gracious, mid-weight personality. Even in 2009, a warm year, the RSV is a Burgundy of sublime polish and enchantment.