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The Deep Bench of Gigondas (Jan 2023)

Vivid ruby. Assertive raspberry, cherry and lavender aromas are accented by smoky mineral and allspice flourishes. Sharply focused and sappy on the palate, showing vibrant lift and cut to its concentrated red fruit preserve, floral pastille and spicecake flavors. Finishes chewy, spicy and very long, with fine-grained tannins and a lingering candied flower suggestion.

Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The 1980 Brunello di Montalcino is another shockingly great wine. Dark, ample and quite tannic—especially for a wine of its age—the 1980 is so impressive. It is virile and imposing at the outset, then starts to show compelling inner perfume. Leather, incense and pipe tobacco meld into the resonant, sustained finish. This is my first…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Vieux Robin shrugs off a bit of reduction on the nose to reveal attractive brambly red fruit laced with clove and woodland scents. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, but nicely balanced, leading to a lilting blackberry and citrus finish. Drink over the next 4–5 years.

2022 Barolo: Half-Full or Half-Empty?

The 2024 Langhe Freisa is especially fine. Thick skins and loose bunches were ideal in this rainy vintage. Deep and layered, with tons of energy, the Freisa is truly superb in 2024. Dark-toned fruit, gravel, incense, game, licorice and dried herbs all come alive in the glass. Sweet spice and floral top notes resonate on…

2022 Barolo: Half-Full or Half-Empty?

The 2024 Dolcetto d’Alba is bright, bold and punchy. Blue-toned fruit, lavender, sage and mint show terrific energy and vibrancy because of the cool year and the decision to use 70% stems, very high for this wine. Give the 2024 six months to a year to come together. It’s another super-distinctive wine in this range.

Alsace 1998 and 1997 (Jul 1999)

Lime, chalk, peach and a peppery nuance on the nose. Great creamy ripeness in the middle palate; slightly sweet but thoroughly vibrant flavors of mineral dust, lime, grapefruit pith and dried apricot. Impeccably balanced riesling. This is really extraordinarily fresh and slow to evolve for a 1990 riesling. The finish leaves a coating of dusty…