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2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Saturated medium ruby. Blackberry, bitter chocolate and nutty oak on the nose; seems rather heavily extracted. Fat, chewy and sweet, with a slightly chunky medicinal black cherry flavor. Finishes with big, broad, granular tannins. A big boy for the vintage, but in an extractive style. (The sample I tasted in the spring of 2005 seemed…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good deep red. Expressive aromas of raspberry, burning tobacco, minerals and truffle. Comparatively primary for the vintage, with good sweetness, richness and depth. Finishes dry but rich, with notes of smoke, game and tobacco. I find more fat and depth of flavor here than I did a year ago. Pomerol

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Latour comes from a period where the First Growth was not firing on all cylinders. This offers black fruit laced with cedar and damp loamy scents, tertiary and a little smoky in style. The palate is well balanced though it does not deliver the complexity of a top Latour. There is gentle grip…

2018 & 2019 Barbaresco Take Center Stage (Feb 2022)

The 2016 Barbaresco Rabajà is very nicely done. It offers up an enticing mélange of dark-fleshed fruit, spice, licorice, sage, tobacco and menthol, all in a relatively mid-weight, light style for this site. The 2016 won't make Giacosa fans forget about the 2001 or 2004, but it is certainly very nicely balanced. Overall, the 2016…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is the most severe and angular of these wines. It will appeal most to die-hard classicists. Chalk, white pepper, mint and sweet red cherry fruit all grace this chiseled, beautifully translucent Barbaresco. As always, the Ovello needs a number of years in bottle to reveal its charms, which in 2016…

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru is a pretty big step up in this range, both in terms of depth, power and energy. Here the flavors are dark, while there is quite a bit of tannin lurking beneath. Black cherry, graphite, leather, smoke, spice and menthol infuse the 2017 with tons of virile, somber character. Readers…