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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Sauvage aromas of red- and blackcurrant, roast coffee, licorice and game. Bright, pure dark berry flavor is juicy and sharply delineated. Really comes alive in the mouth. Finishes very long and subtle, with berry and floral notes and even, mouthdusting tannins. This is much more tender today than the lower-pH ’94 made here. Like the…

Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018 (May 2020)

The 1995 Pavie-Macquin lacks both mid-palate and freshness. Time in the glass brings out a range of pretty floral and savory notes, but the 1995 is rather light. Of course, 1995 was a vintage with high yields. The realities facing the new management were stark as the château struggled for its survival. “We needed to…

2022 Barolo: Half-Full or Half-Empty?

The 2024 Langhe Nebbiolo continues this series of fine entry-level offerings from Burlotto. All the elements are so well balanced. Silky tannins and gracious mid-weight structure are the signatures. Cool blue-toned fruit, graphite, lavender and menthol lend notable aromatic presence and overall perfume.

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

(disgorged April, 2006) Bright yellow. Leesy, deeply pungent aromas of buttered pear and apple, with a strong impression of jasmine. Deeply concentrated and powerful on the palate, the pear flavor almost liqueur-like in intensity, with a solid frame of minerality and a building toffee note. Finishes with a depth charge of talc-y minerality and a…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 La Mission Haut-Brion has a lovely nose with blackberry, scorched earth, sage and light truffle scents, with a touch of antique mahogany bureau. There’s fine delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with “thick” tannins that exert a fine grip. The 2004 is spicy with black pepper and light truffle notes. There’s just a…