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Bartolo Mascarello Retrospective: 1958-2010 (Nov 2016)

Sensual, silky and totally alluring, the 2004 Barolo is another wine that is a picture-perfect example of its vintage. The aromatics alone are captivating, but it is the wine’s total balance that places it in the upper echelon. After some of the ups and downs of the 1980s and 1990s’ wines, the 2004 really shows…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

(bottled a month prior to my visit) Good brilliant full red with a hint of amber. Distinctly more primary aromas than the 2003: fresh cherry, raspberry, menthol, dried flowers and an exotic suggestion of orange zest that contributes to the impression of lift. Fresh and gripping, though quite closed, even a bit pinched, after the…

Bartolo Mascarello 1955 to…from Magnum (Jul 2023)

The 2004 Barolo (magnum) is soft and silky, but it is also more forward than I expect, or want, to be honest. Dried flowers, leather, spice, game and dark-fleshed fruit fill out the layers. Vertical tastings serve, among other things, to shine a bright light on a single wine over many vintages. In this context,…

2010 Barolo: Flying High Again (Jan 2014)

Bartolo Mascarello fans will want to stock up on the 2009 Barolo, a great choice for indulging in pure pleasure while vintages like 2006, 2008 and 2010 take their time to develop in bottle. Dried rose petals, fennel, anise, sweet tobacco and mint are all very much alive in the glass. The 2009 is ethereal,…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

(14.5% alcohol): Good bright red. Cherry liqueur, raspberry and red licorice on the nose. Then surprisingly juicy in the mouth for this warm year, showing intense red fruit and mineral flavors accented by blood orange and spices. At once silky and light on its feet. this very elegant and refined 2009 Barolo finishes with suave…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Le Petit Ducru de Ducru Beaucaillou comes from 25 hectares on the western part of the appellation (10 hectares currently being re-planted) with declassified La Croix and Ducru Beaucaillou. It has a very focused bouquet of black fruit infused with graphite/pencil lead scents, a touch of brine emerging with time. The palate is…