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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Grand Puy Lacoste is just as compelling from bottle as it was from barrel. Sensual, polished and refined, the 2015 is all class. Silky tannins, perfumed aromatics and beautifully delineated fruit are some of the signatures. The natural richness of the year comes through nicely, but without overpowering the wine’s mid-weight sense of…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Grand Puy Lacoste did not perform to the level I expected. That said, it has a wonderful bouquet of vibrant blackberry and raspberry fruit, rose petals and graphite, all very complex and engaging. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin. It still has some vanilla-y oak to be assimilated, but it displays a…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Mouton Rothschild takes a few swirls of the glass to coalesce, slightly minty black fruit commingling with cassis and iris flower. Doesn’t quite “flow” like subsequent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy on the mid-palate and concentrated in the context of the vintage. A touch of burnt toast and white…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 1978 Gruaud-Larose is a vintage not seen for a while. It has a fresh nose, typical of the vintage, conservative and slightly leafy, with plenty of forest floor, smoky scents and perhaps insufficient fruit. The palate is straightforward, balanced with fine tannins, lacking some mid-palate depth and grip with some austerity on the finish….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1994 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that I have not tasted for many years. It was a year that saw a large yield for Merlot but less for Cabernet Franc. It has a markedly rustic nose that belongs to a different era: ferrous in style, quite Pomerol-like. The palate is medium-bodied with (again) rustic…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Opaque violet. Smoky cherry-cola and licorice on the nose, with a sexy potpourri quality adding complexity. Smoky, peppery dark fruit flavors are given spine by juicy acidity and pick up fine-grained tannins with air. Very rich but surprisingly lively, finishing with lingering notes of pepper and flowers.