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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A big, powerful wine, the 2012 Haut-Brion possesses stunning richness and intensity, with all of the depth that is lacking in so many other wines in this vintage. Not here. The 2012 possesses remarkable depth and tons of raw, animal power that is going to require considerable time in bottle to soften. Readers should be…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(65.5% merlot, 32.5% cabernet sauvignon and 2% cabernet franc; 44 h/h): Deep ruby-red. Compelling perfume of dark berries, red cherry, licorice, violet and bitter chocolate. Highly concentrated and penetrating, with superb sappiness to the rich flavors of raspberry, brown spices, cocoa powder and smoky black pepper. This big, rich wine displays outstanding spine and grip…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Haut-Brion is beginning to flex its muscles. The bouquet is perhaps one of the most backward of the five First Growths, the Merlot firmly in the driving seat. Blackcurrant mixes with pitted black olives and cedar, and light sous-bois scents percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, very good…

2004 Barolo: The Cream Rises to The Top (May 2015)

Giacosa’s 2004 Barolo Falletto is a rock star. The truth is that, if tasted alone, the white label Falletto could easily be mistaken for the Red Label Riserva. It is every bit that compelling. Intensely perfumed yet also towering in stature, the 2004 is simply magnificent. The main difference between the white label and red…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Saturated medium red. Musky aromas of sappy cherry liqueur and minerals. Juicy, mineral-driven and gripping, with excellent clarity and thrust to its intense, slightly candied flavors. A very sexy, wonderfully rich and broad Barolo with substantial ripe tannins. The pHs of the Barolos and Barbarescos here are higher today than they were previously, admits Giacosa,…

Piedmont Icons Dinner

The 2004 Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d’Alba soars from the moment it is served. Sensual and beautifully layered in the glass, the 2004 offers up a heady mélange of dark-toned fruit, leather, cedar, tobacco and spice box. At nearly 20 years of age, the 2004 remains magnificent. When all is said and done, 2004 ranks…