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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright red. Knockout nose offers scents of black raspberry, cherry, rose petal, smoky minerality and sexy sweet oak. Tactile, ripe and spicy, with pepper and spice high notes accentuating the wine’s sharp definition. Redder its in fruit character than the Clos des Ruchottes, and even finer-grained in the middle palate, but also more tannic on…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 1988 Lafleur is a vintage that I have not encountered for a while. It has a typical ’88 nose, a bit austere (especially when directly juxtaposed with the ensuing two vintages), arguably conservative and not wishing to put a foot wrong. Light black fruit, antique bureau, freshly rolled tobacco and hints of pine emerge….

Champagne – The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2018)

Henriot’s 2008 Brut Millesime is rich, creamy and super-expressive, all of which make it an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Pastry, apricot, lemon confit, green pear and white flowers all grace this subtle, inviting Champagne from Henriot. The 2008 has enough fruit to drink well now, but also more…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac marked the arrival of a new vineyard manager, Pierre Auché. This has a lively, pretty and charming bouquet with redcurrant and wild strawberry scents bursting from the glass. Fine delineation. The oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery tannins and decent concentration considering the vintage. Black pepper and…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Talbot might be one of the most underestimated wines of the Left Bank. This bottle was my own contribution and it outflanked some of the more expensive, better reputed Saint-Julien wines. Captivating on the nose, classical through and through, this is fresh and vibrant, a bit leaner than the Ducru-Beaucaillou though with more…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

Recent vintages of the 2005 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru have left me not particularly impressed. In this era, the winemaking duties were undertaken by Benjamin Leroux; this magnum was bought by current winemaker Paul Zanetti. I just find it trying much too hard to make an impression. The aromas are bold and in…