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Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1994 Lafleur is a vintage that I drank regularly in the days when such off-vintages were cheap. However, it has long been a wine that seems permanently stuck in a root day: green and herbaceous on the nose, Loire meets Pomerol on the palate. Quite simply, I don’t think the Cabernet Franc achieved full…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good deep red-ruby color. Initially mute nose opens to reveal a sappy black cherry and licorice aroma, but no sign of the superripe quality found in the best Lafleurs from decades past. Dense and extremely backward in the mouth; displays a very primary iodiney/fruit pit quality and excellent sweetness. Powerfully structured and quite tannic;…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1993 Lafleur is a vintage I have not tasted for a while. This showed well with brambly black fruit, briary and touches of undergrowth, less ferrous than three or four previous bottles. The palate is tannic and a little rough-hewn, like many 1993s, although this is mellow and coheres with aeration. It’s less astringent…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1993 Lafleur can be a great vintage but this bottle suggested that its tannins might be usurping the fruit. It has a rustic, earthy, ferrous nose that feels a little jarring at first, although it gains cohesion with time. The palate is medium-bodied with coarse and gritty tannin. As I have written before, it…

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Good full red. Reticent nose hints at plum, cherry, cinnamon and pepper. Tightly wound and imploded; much more backward than the premier cru. Not a particularly big or powerful version of Clos des Lambrays but shows the structured side of the vintage more than its sweetness of fruit. This seems to be closing down now….

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

A huge, dramatic wine, the 2015 Haut-Brion is magnificent. Vertical in its construction and towering in its reach, the 2015 is going to need a good decade-plus to even start becoming approachable, as it needs to lose baby fat and develop the full range of its aromatics. Even at this early stage, though, it is…