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Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

Bollinger’s 2004 Brut La Grand Année is a beautiful wine with a lot of vintage character, but the style is a bit less oxidative than Bollinger fans are likely to expect. Pears, hazelnuts, spices and crushed rocks all flow through to the tense, vibrant finish. It will be interesting to see if the 2004 puts…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(disgorged January, 2013): Light, bright gold. Powerful orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by smoky lees, iodine, chamomile and buttered toast. At once fleshy and energetic, offering deeply pitched poached pear, peach pit and brioche flavors and a suave floral element. Finishes smoky and very long, with mounting spiciness and lingering floral and vanilla…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1990 Lafite-Rothschild put in a great performance at this dinner. In fact, this bottle was better than one opened at the château in 2018. Stunning delineation, almost crystalline, with youthful, mineral-laden black fruit laced with truffle and allspice. Very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with finely woven tannins, perfect acidity and a real peacock’s…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Lynch-Bages comes across as a bit bombastic and ripe. Mocha, plums, dark cherry, blackberry, licorice, tar and new oak are all evident in this slightly four-square Lynch Bages. Today, the 2012 comes in as somewhat disjointed and not fully put together. It will be interesting to see what further time in bottle brings….

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Deep purple. Floral blackcurrant and mineral aromas on the delicate, pure nose. Then equally delicate in the mouth, offering flavors of dark berries, graphite and cedar. Finishes clean and long, with above-average concentration for the vintage. Jean-Charles Cazes explained that the harvest reception system was changed this year, with two extra reception lines added to…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2012 Lynch-Bages has a crisp, rather introverted, tertiary nose with touches of autumn leaves coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, a little disjointed and conservative compared to others, but gains more weight towards its austere and grippy finish. Maybe hard-going at the moment, maybe it will loosen up? Tasted…