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Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Haut-Brion has a gorgeous bouquet of great amplitude, featuring lush but controlled red berry fruit laced with chestnut and hints of game, all generous and intoxicating yet not overblown. The palate is medium-bodied with quite an oaky, coconut-tinged entry. Surprisingly savory, almost animally in style, it feels warm and fleshy and also a…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Good dark red. Reduced nose dominated by strawberry and raspberry. Wonderfull silky on entry, then quite closed on the back half, with the element of reduction carrying through on the palate. Showed some enticing dark raspberry and game notes with air. Finishes firmly tannic but not dry. This wine was tough to taste following Rousseau’s…

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes Grand Cru initially has a backward and slightly disjointed bouquet, but it just requires aeration. After a few minutes, crushed limestone infuses the black rather than red fruit. It’s a little rustic, loamy and slightly fungal in style. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, not a complex Ruchottes-Chambertin,…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2013 Ruchottes-Chambertin-Clos des Ruchottes is one of the more perfumed, lifted wines in the range. There is good depth on the attack and through the mid-palate but the finish turns a bit compact, albeit with lovely invigorating freshness. It will be interesting to see if the 2013 gains a bit more weight in bottle….

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2008 Cheval Blanc is one of the go-to wines of the vintage. Now at 15 years old, it has retained the energy and focus it displayed from the outset: black fruit, crushed stone, wilted violet petals and touches of forest floor cohere wonderfully in the glass. The Cabernet here is more expressive. The palate…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2003)

Very deep red-ruby. Smoky, deeply concentrated fruit bomb of a nose: blackberry, dark plum, cassis; creamy vanilla and lightly toasty coconutty oak; and ethereal background notes of white pepper, smoked meats, musky spices, tar and licorice. Profoundly concentrated but velvety-smooth and seamless; impressively muscular and thickly coated with oak, and bound by drying, astringent tannins….