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Focus on California (May 2001)

Saturated dark ruby. Aromas of black fruits, bitter chocolate, caramel and nutty, charred oak. Amazingly lush and silky for the year, with ripe flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and licorice. Can’t match the ’97, or the ’99, for sheer density but this is bright, concentrated, suave and very long. Tannins are even and fine….

Vinous Table: Barolo Masterclass at Scalini Fedeli (July 2016)

The 1997 Le Vigne is edged by the 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis that follows. Ample and incredibly inviting, the 1997 Cannubi Boschis is a wine of total sensuality. An exotic mélange of dark cherry, plum, leather and spice melds into the super-expressive finish. All of a sudden the conversation stops at the dinner table. That…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2000)

Deep red-ruby. Pungent, minerally aromas of red berries and dark chocolate; distinct high-toned hint of surmaturite Sweet, thick and sappy; a huge, broad, headspinning Barolo that offers terrific vinosity and insinuating red berry flavors. Really extravagantly rich wine.

Tuscany: New Releases from the Coast (Jul 2022)

The 2018 Biserno is a gorgeous, elegant wine that captures the essence of the house style today. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, espresso, licorice and incense are all laced together. The 2019 is deep and fleshy yet also retains mid-weight structure and terrific energy. It’s one of the most elegant wines I have tasted here.

Domaines Great & Small: Burgundy Interim Report (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has a more backward bouquet with touches of petrichor and green apple unfolding in the glass, quite strict compared to the other cuvées. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. There is a touch of reduction at the moment, but it is simpatico with the…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

A blend of 50- to 70-year-old vines from various parcels around Brochon, the 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin "Mes Cinq Terroirs" has a taut, strict bouquet of pixelated red berry fruit laced with crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, superb acidity, a silky-smooth texture and a crystalline finish. Outstanding.