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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru contains two-thirds whole cluster and is matured in 50% new oak. It has a well-defined bouquet of raspberry, wild strawberry and pressed rose petal scents, plus just a hint of black truffle in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. A gentle, lilting Les Malconsorts with…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac marked a year when ownership passed to Henri Lurton’s four children, although he remains as general manager. More importantly (perhaps), the 2022 is a benchmark for the Margaux estate, its future North Star. This has a stupendous nose with intense Cabernet Sauvignon inflections, its intensity and delineation superior to the 2019 and…

Vinous Table: La Lune, Beaune, France

The 2009 Chambertin Grand Cru is in a beautiful place. It boasts a cornucopia of aromas on the nose. Effervescent red fruit, rose petals, freshly tilled loam and light red brick scents blossom in the glass, each vying for your attention and delineated to perfection. The palate delivers the sumptuousness of the 2009 vintage, all…

Santa Cruz Mountains – California’s Hidden Gem (Nov 2023)

The 2020 Monte Bello opens with a burst of dark red fruit. Leather, tobacco and mocha open nicely in the glass. There’s no getting past smoke taint in this wine. That’s a shame, as the flavors are nicely delineated and the tannins are well balanced for the year in this small-scaled Monte Bello. The 2020…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1990 Ducru-Beaucaillou was matured in two-thirds new oak for 12 months. Ever a controversial vintage because of the problems in storage that tainted some of the production (not all), this bottle had a clean nose but one that felt a little one-dimensional, with simple red berry fruit and earthy notes, becoming increasingly herbal with…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Very good medium color. Minerals, licorice, and earth notes on the nose; but two samples showed the slight musty quality that has plagued so many young Ducru bottles beginning with the ’85 vintage. Quite unevolved on the palate; lean for the vintage, but nicely delineated and understated. Firm tannins appear somewhat dry. Impossible to assess,…