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Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Rather full yellow with a gold tinge. Slightly exotic apricot and yellow peach scents on first sniff, with notes of wet stone, lemon zest, mandarin and baked bread quickly coming up. Fat, thick and honeyed on entry, but quickly firmed in the mid-palate by an edge of acidity, with strong iodiney minerality emerging on the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Explosive aromas of plum liqueur, currant, minerals and lead pencil. Huge, lush, sweet and utterly seamless; this has the palate-caressing texture of liquid velvet. About as deep as this extreme vintage gets. Finishes with noble, compellingly sweet tannins and great length. This is amazing wine, and only its exotic character prevented me from giving…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has an overtly peachy bouquet with more conspicuous oak than its peers, though everything seems to be nicely balanced. The palate is well balanced with an oaky entry that rather impedes the terroir and slightly dries out the finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 white tasting.

2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

Pale, green-tinged yellow. Knockout nose combines musky pineapple, lime and powdered stone; seems less exotic than the 2008. Wonderfully silky on entry, then explosively ripe and sweet in the middle, with powerful, palate-staining flavors of lime and flowers. Very rich and impeccably balanced, with its sweetness perfectly countered by firm buffering acidity. A great showing…

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Perrières 1984-2014 (Dec 2019)

Bright yellow-gold. At once oxidative and high-toned on the nose, offering musky scents of hazelnut, orange zest and quince. Still has some life and sweet fruit but too edgy for me. Finishes dry, with obvious volatile acidity. Lafon did not present this vintage as part of the vertical tasting at the estate, noting that ’99…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(tasted from tank, after fining): Bright, light yellow. Restrained aromas of lemon, minerals and flint. Juicy, lemony and brisk, with underlying minerality giving the broad mid-palate a light touch. Best today on the echoing, dusty finish, which really piques the taste buds.